Author Topic: Mini-tooth (Read 46343 times)

havinnoj · « **Reply #45 on:** August 05, 2014, 02:21:36 PM »

Video of [MENTION=74]traxman[/MENTION]'s second ever pass on the MiniTooth. Dogged off the line in this one but cleans out nicely. Should be a nice runner when it's tuned.

[video=youtube_share;uc1BVqLPrYc]http://youtu.be/uc1BVqLPrYc[/video]

rsss396 · « **Reply #46 on:** August 06, 2014, 10:40:27 PM »

Bike looks strong for its first few passes!

traxman · « **Reply #47 on:** August 06, 2014, 11:35:46 PM »

lol Look at the smoke trail it leaves!! It was pig rich, but I was too afraid to look back and see.. lol It was the first time on it since last dunefest for one pass besides the couple test hits that resulted in a broken frame. I was a little nervous being @ the line wondering how my repairs where going to hold up. That run was my first pass, the second pass really bogged and my third pass it did really well and carried the front to the 280' area..

rsss396 · « **Reply #48 on:** August 07, 2014, 08:59:15 AM »

Yes lots of smoke haha! its tough to run them at the track for the first time, not like racing in the dunes where you just hotlap and make another run if it wasnt good. IMO tuning for the track is differant than the dunes because you need to be on the leaner side so the bike is not loaded up. But in the dunes we like them richer because if racing gets good you just keep hot lapping them.

traxman · « **Reply #49 on:** August 07, 2014, 11:52:53 PM »

Not me!! I lean it up at the dunes so I have a reason to stop loosing after three races against banshees double my displacement!! Lmao!

Pumashine · « **Reply #50 on:** October 26, 2014, 05:42:03 PM »

A thanks to Damon AKA Traxman for giving us a little taste of the power of the mini tooth. He is running an out of frame drag pipe so the angle of the pipe can be adapted easier for the Caracal cylinder. This cylinder was not made for a Honda trx250r. It was intended as a twin or triple on a Banshee. The angle of the exhaust is at least 6 degrees different than a Honda. So heres how a Puma in-frame pipe fits the Caracal.

Will have to cut a pie shape the same as the wedge space created in the pic. It will just be the opposite (180 degrees) taken off the pipe

The good thing is that this gives me a little room to play with moving the pipe to where it fits the best. Looks like real good kicker clearance.

Also got just enough room for the coolant line from the back of the cylinder to the clutch cover

Pumashine · « **Reply #51 on:** October 26, 2014, 07:38:29 PM »

I cut a piece of metal the same width as the pipe flange so it will clamp in the band-saw. I am going to cut right along a weld. Marked center with a scribe line and some more marks for reference. Set pipe close to perpendicular with the blade and cut.

Hold the pipe like its going to mount

Them make a mark where the pipe overlaps to get it close to where you want to cut.

Using the marks as a guide to sand off the pie shape to get the pipe to fit correctly before tack weld in place.

Pumashine · « **Reply #52 on:** October 26, 2014, 08:40:14 PM »

Quote from: spiritaces;45061

Man you got it. I'd be scared to start fabbing and hacking lol

Hacking? Thats not what we call it. But OK sure. Took about 3 minutes to sand the header piece.

Looking from the top, much better than before. Pipe is centered and clears everything.

Now its time to put clearance spacers anywhere the pipe may touch the frame. I like to use 1/8" rubber to flex where it needs to go. Get it where you want it and mark the mating pieces in a few places. Marker tends to rub off. Scribe lines tend to move the pipe around. Then you can take it to the welder and have him tack it in 3 places. Go back and check the fit before welding all the way around.

rsss396 · « **Reply #53 on:** October 26, 2014, 09:33:54 PM »

The better way to have done that would have been to use a protractor and measure the angle needed to fix the alignment and then cut the pipe at half that angle. Then turn the pipe flange 180 from where it was, only bad thing is the spring mounts would have to moved also.
The reason it's better to do it this way you only loose the length of the blade width, but it did not look like you removed allot to do your mod so it probably did not hurt anything

Pumashine · « **Reply #54 on:** October 26, 2014, 10:10:23 PM »

Quote from: rsss396;45068

The reason it's better to do it this way you only loose the length of the blade width

Thanks for the advice Dave. I did take all that into consideration. I needed to take off 3/16"-1/4" on the high side of the pie. I thought about taking 1/2 off both sections. So about 1/8" to nothing on each. What I did not show was the pipe was actually to long to fit into the frame. It was hitting the a-arm mounts that I cut away about 1/4". I lost about 1/8" from front to back as the pipe spring mounts are about centered. The band-saw is .030" thick. Worked out about perfect just doing the pie off the flange (even had clearance on the water hose which has never happened before). After I get the pipe centered with clearance everywhere I can sand the flange a little to make a perfect fit for weld.

What I am saying is since this is not a 250r cylinder it actually worked to my advantage where the exhaust flange ended up. That and Matt's pipes are all a little different. I compared this one to another one I acquired recently. The pipe spring mounts were 1/4"-3/8" further away from the cylinder on this one. So now its perfect as far as I can tell. Just got lucky today.

Pumashine · « **Reply #55 on:** December 18, 2014, 09:31:36 PM »

So I got the pipe welded up.

Clears the brake mount

Clears the a-arm

In the Smart carb thread Dave suggested mounting the Smart carb to the CR500 intake with an adapter plater I made him. Looks like this.

So I did the same and got this set up!

So I ready to mount the carb after polishing the adapter plate

Morse250r · « **Reply #56 on:** December 18, 2014, 09:43:51 PM »

Nice work. !

Pumashine · « **Reply #57 on:** May 06, 2015, 12:05:14 PM »

Time to get this monster back on track. Building a stinger to get from Shearer inframe pipe to Cascade silencer. The polished one on top was a fixxed stinger off the ESR 5 big bore pipe. Using a large radius on the new stinger for better air flow.

Pumashine · « **Reply #58 on:** July 25, 2015, 02:19:48 PM »

Exhaust in place

Smart carb had to be reworked as the OEM cr500 intake boot I purchsed new is a lil too long. Fixed the issue by taking the one off my sons CR500 and fitting it on being careful to drill mounting holes a lil higher to lower the whole carb as much as possible. It now clears the frame with lt500 intake boot installed. Thanks to Jared AKA Skeans1 for this idea.

Time to dissemble mock up and paint the frame.

Pumashine · « **Reply #59 on:** July 27, 2015, 12:26:28 PM »

I don't have much experience shooting metal flake

Suns too bright to see the flakes but you can see them in the shaded part towards to back in this pic

In the sunlight the red is close to Honda red but it is much darker in the shade. This is the color I was aiming for.