ESR 330 Failure

[rsss396]

That sucks, But if it was mine I would take things into my own hands and figure out whats going on.

I know ESR is very safe with there dome designs and being only a 310 you should be able to bolt any pipe on it.

So the 2 things I would want to chase is fuel and heat.

A part throttle lean condition is always the toughest to figure out because depending on load and how long you are at that position can be the difference between it burning down or not.

Even the factories struggle with this, my 03 700 EFI Firecat had a lean spot that many people had issues burning them down from holding the throttle constant at one position, I almost never do that and it never gave any issues even after I installed restrictors in the fuel line to the injectors to cut fuel on the topend.



The second issue with heat is make sure you have a good radiator, preferably a aftermarket, run a low percentage of antifreeze or other special coolants that are available.
Then go after removing material above the exhaust port if you do not have the exhaust valve, this will pull heat from the piston keeping it cool.
This could probably be done by most any machine shop for 50-100.00 or even yourself on a drill press if you take your time.
Its not rocket science it removing a certain amount of material at a determined depth.
Then I would take the Head and fill with epoxy the water pocket cutouts that are above the cylinder water jacket slots.
Take a factory  gasket and measure the hole sizes they use to restrict the water flow in a stock cylinder setup.
Take these sizes and slot the epoxy you have used to fill the head pockets and if you increase flow anywhere make it in the pocket above the exhaust port

If you decide to do this there will be plenty of help here to guide you threw it

[udontknowme]

from the photos the water jacket front area looks restricted from the PV material cast in there. they should have a slightly modified casting for the cylinders not using the PV

[etccb]

Sounds like the water jackets recieved some attention. They have a newest design as they put it that has the water jackets mech out more and the base nut seats mech out better.

[The Phantom]

This is nice to know (but may not pertain to my cyl.)since I have a new 350pv kit on its way for my R.

[C-Leigh Racing]

I know its hard to believe, but those little casting dimples down in the coolant jacket, will help in removing heat from the casting. Just like a fin on an old A/C engine cylinder, thinner & longer they are more heat the fin will remove.

Fred, so your running the ignition with the little metal plate on the CR stator plate still in place ?.
I dont know your year of CR ignition, but on the ignition on my daughters R, I had that little metal plate removed, stator plate set to full retard setting, used a dial indicator in the plug hole to find TDC, then scribed a mark on the case to aline with the TDC mark on the CR flywheel, soap stoned both marks & then used a timing light to check ignition timing.
With the metal plate removed & stator plate set at full retard, timing was still around 8 to 10* advance at idle speed & would retard just a little as the engine reved.
That was with the CR ignition set up on my daughters R, if its same as yours I have no idea.

I'll add as rsss, that melt away on the top exhaust side edge of the piston, is a good indicator of deto if it be from lean heat or to low an octane gas heat.
I've seen many performance engines destroyed, from melted pistons on the exhaust side edge from to low of an octane gas being used.

I say this again, just as I've said many times, when you lift that pump nozzle up out of its holder on a pump at a gas station, do you know for sure if the tanker driver that delivered the last load of gas to that station, if he dropped the right product in the right holding tank .
The answer is no of course & you wont know until it damages your engine, so any of you using pump gas are taking a chance on a performance built engine.

Some questions,
When you pressure tested, did you have the exhaust flange in place & if so was it sealed between the cylinder casting & the flange.
Was the pipe sealed good, where it connects the exhaust flange with a high heat type silicone, & if so, did you allow that sealant like a day & night to cure out before running the engine.

If your using the new type machined ESR piston, that piston has the wrist pin hole moved forward 5mm, so it offsets the timing by the hole being moved forward to the exhaust port.
Neil

[F-Red]

Neil, long time no hear. How you feeling these days? You and I conversed through email's, about all of the issues you've mentioned. I have to believe now, that i'm dealing with a heat issue.
Hopefully in a couple of weeks, I'll be able to start, buying some parts and give this cylinder one last try. It will be ashame, if your beautifully done port work, has to become a door stop.
Thanks for reading, Fred. :sign0188:

[C-Leigh Racing]

Do one check before you give up on it.
When you get the next new piston, check the depth of the ring pin locator down in the ring grooves, then do the same on that last piston messed up, see if the ring pin has backed out of its hole.

One of the pics of your cylinder, theres a scrape line in the bore right where the locator pin is located & if it backed out, it could cause a piston to loose clearance on the exhaust side from the ring bulging out.
Wiseco suppose to have fixed that problem, those pins backing out, but who knows.  
Had that same problem with a Wossnor some time back, had to eat it & pistons are hard to chew & ruff on teeth. Not bought a Wossnor since.
Neil

[F-Red]

I will check that out. Thanks Neil.

[F-Red]

Update: Opened up the front water passages.

[Langbolt]

That'll help BIG TIME!....You might also consider drilling some oiling holes in the Piston (similar to the ones we used to do for the bridged intake) so the piston will cool a bit on either side of the exhaust port between the secondary exhaust & main exhaust. That'll help the piston from not sticking in that area.  Good luck and keep us posted on your results.

[F-Red]

It has to help, right? The new ESR pistons, don't have the three rows of oil holes. Just one row down the middle. I thought about added more, than decided not to. I did talk to Eddie at ESR, he thinks it is the fuel I was using. I'm going to use straight race fuel, no mixing with pump gas. Uncle Neil will be happy! :applouse:

[rsss396]

the water passage looks much better and defiantly cant hurt.
I think the extra holes would not hurt in the piston either, you do not have to make them very large or chamfer them much like some do.
race fuel is a good idea or maybe even aviation fuel

[F-Red]

I was thinking about trying 100LL. There is a general airport very close to me. $5.90 a gal. Are there any negatives, to using Av gas?

[udontknowme]

i never tried avgas but theres quit a bit of info out there to read. pros and cons depending who you ask and what article you look at. i read something the other day that mentioned if its real high in lead it could accumulate on the ballbarings .  but im not sure how high of lead content they were talking about. but ya you find alot of folks like it and probly just as many that say dont use it. its like any oil thread. 16 pages in and not much has been accomplished

[rsss396]

aviation gas is not a race gas but its better than any pump premium out there.
VP C12 will make better power but will cost you allot of money so if its hard to get good race gas then at least try the aviation fuel and see if it works.
But of course if you are looking for the edge on the competition and want to squeeze everything you can out of the bike then better fuel is the best choice, of course if you have low compression then race fuel will not do much for you except insure a quality fuel.
But IMO that is the advantage of aviation fuel over pump gas premium, at least you know the fuel will be consistent, they have much more stringent rules on their fuel when it comes to consistency

In the tech section there is a write up or two on av fuel