how do you seal your 2 piece exhaust pipe together?

[rablack21]

I have a Sparks mx 2 piece style exhaust pipe, just like LRD's and a few others. The big issue that I have is that it is EXTREMELY difficult to separate the 2 pieces when I need to take the pipe off for whatever reason. I have tried Hondabond high temp and Permatex Red (high temp). They both seal the pipe very well, but are hell to get the 2 pieces apart when removing the pipe, almost to the point of damaging the pipes to get them to separate. I have tried putting less sealant on the pipe and it sometimes doesn't seal completely. I put a little more on the pipe is stuck on there ridiculously tight. I never had this problem with my old fmf pipe as the 2 pieces were sealed by an oring. My question is: has anybody found a trick for sealing this joint that is still reasonable to separate when needed?

[rablack21]

Not a single replay? Am I the only one who has ever had this problem?

[T8R6X]

I use the the hi temp permatex and when I need to take it part I have a small butane torch and heat it up seems to come apart way easier

[Jerry Hall]

Not a single replay? Am I the only one who has ever had this problem?

I have not found any sealer that does not present the same problems you described.  This is one of many reasons that I do not like the multi-piece pipes.  Another reason is a cracked pipe never seems to work as well as a pipe body that is one piece.  A pipe that has multiple pieces that is held together with springs, turn-buckles, etc. behaves similar to a cracked pipe.  My experience has been that a pipe that has a straight head pipe, like the majority of the pipes on the market, are a lot cheaper to build, but more prone to have detonation problems on a highly developed engine than a dimensionally equivalent pipe that has a gradual bend in the head pipe.

I have built and tested multi-piece and one piece pipes on the TRX 250.  The one piece pipes are not as attractive but will usually make the engine less sensitive to detonation related piston failures.  The pipes do not have all of the leaky joints to contend with.  I discontinued building our one piece pipes about 20 years ago because of the expense of fabrication and guys liked the look of the new multiple piece pipes.

[rablack21]

I use the the hi temp permatex and when I need to take it part I have a small butane torch and heat it up seems to come apart way easier

I have never tried using a torch and heating up the pipe at the connection before trying to separate the pieces. I may try this next time.

[TRXforever]

I've used high temp permatex for years. I just grab a cold beverage of choice and carefully work it back and fourth until it starts to seperate.  I have never thought of the torch deal though. I bet that would help soften the permatex.

[Burns363R]

I don't use anything on mine. Tight fit and no leaks. Are you sure you need anything at all.

[rablack21]

Without some sort of sealant, the pipe will leak. It's not hard to tell when it is leaking. My pipe is in decent shape, but it's not a new pipe. This seems to really only be an issue with 2 piece pipes that come together after the bend through the frame (at the start of the large part of the pipe). I never had a problem nor used any sealant on my old fmf pipe. They used a high temp o-ring where they join together just inside the frame. I can see why ESR pipes do this as well. New LED pipes may not have this issue, but that is probably because they are new and all the dimensions are tight. I can't stand when the pipe leaks and it's not good for the engine. But I have busted knuckles every time I take my pipe off. I also usually have to stick something thin like a kitchen knife to wedge in between the pipes to break the seal to even get the pipe to come apart.

[JoePA]

Ryan, I have the same pipe as you and haven't had an issue with the pipe coming apart. I don't what the difference in performance is between a one piece or two piece pipe has to do with it but a Sparks Pipe pretty much speaks for itself.

What if you try putting a skim coat on the male portion of the pipe and letting it cure for a day or two and then install the pipe. This may act like a large o-ring and seal the pipe but still allow it to be disassembled too.

[rablack21]

I had the same idea, Joe! But i haven't gotten to test the idea yet. Made sense to me as well though. I will try this next time I take the pipe apart. I had to throw mine together quickly after the build due to a race, so I couldn't afford for it not to seal and quickly. I will test this idea though.

[Bowtie316]

On my ESR pipe I cleaned and put permatex ultra black on the female portion, then put a light coating of wd40 on the male portion (to keep it from sticking) then pushed them together and let cure for a day before starting.  It sealed well and pulled apart fine.  Might not work as well on the larger joints.

[rablack21]

On my ESR pipe I cleaned and put permatex ultra black on the female portion, then put a light coating of wd40 on the male portion (to keep it from sticking) then pushed them together and let cure for a day before starting.  It sealed well and pulled apart fine.  Might not work as well on the larger joints.

Interesting idea. but why point any sealant on that pipe? I thought is has a high temp o ring where those two joints come together?

[Bowtie316]

Interesting idea. but why point any sealant on that pipe? I thought is has a high temp o ring where those two joints come together?

On my old FMF pipe there is on on the head pipe to expansion chamber, but on the head pipe to expansion joint on the ESR pipe there is not. ESR silencer has a o-ring connection.