Author Topic: pumashine's ftz cylinder (Read 22907 times)

patman13mia · « **Reply #45 on:** May 27, 2014, 09:41:20 PM »

hey tony i got the piston in today and installed it onto the crankshaft. thats about all i can do im about to go to dinner with my wife. i made her help me bleed the brakes so ill take her out lol. i took a pic of the 3mm spacer and the 2 .020 gaskets. now im a couple mm away from flush as you can see

patman13mia · « **Reply #46 on:** May 27, 2014, 09:42:06 PM »

patman13mia · « **Reply #47 on:** May 27, 2014, 09:42:52 PM »

should i use the other piston with this setup? that would probably bring me flush?? idk just asking here

Pumashine · « **Reply #48 on:** May 27, 2014, 11:15:10 PM »

Quote from: patman13mia;35094

should i use the other piston with this setup? that would probably bring me flush?? idk just asking here

You were just supposed to swap pistons, no spacer. The spacer was for the first piston. When you start adding spacers there is no point of reference. Use the 2nd piston with no spacer. The piston should be flush with the top or recessed slightly. This second piston matches your old style that was working with your crank.

patman13mia · « **Reply #49 on:** May 27, 2014, 11:28:09 PM »

ahh gotcha.. i just confused myself on all of that. i got it now. heres a pic

patman13mia · « **Reply #50 on:** May 27, 2014, 11:32:01 PM »

should i use yamabond on any of these gaskets? i would imagine the head gasket would need it. then let dry 24 hours??

Pumashine · « **Reply #51 on:** May 27, 2014, 11:55:14 PM »

Nothing on the head gasket. It seals with the black stuff that it is made with. You can only use once and then discard. It is a copy of the head gaskets Honda used in all the gasket kits sold until they were discontinued. Once torqued down it cannot be reused.

Pumashine · « **Reply #52 on:** May 28, 2014, 12:03:30 AM »

Quote from: patman13mia;35104

should i use yamabond on any of these gaskets? i would imagine the head gasket would need it. then let dry 24 hours??

Its common to use gasket sealer if you are using spacer plates. But you should just have the .020" base gasket on there. I would be more concerned with making sure you lube the wrist pin bearing with whichever oil you are using and get the circlips in correctly. Mark with a felt tip pen where your ring gaps go on the piston and assemble with a shot of wd-40.

patman13mia · « **Reply #53 on:** May 28, 2014, 02:17:06 AM »

Ok got everything together. Hoses ran from the radiator. Got the pipe on. Still some small things i gota do before i can fire it up.ill post some pics tomorrow.

patman13mia · « **Reply #54 on:** May 29, 2014, 12:29:41 AM »

Well i got everything installed and tried to start her up. Nothing. Doesnt seem like im getting any spark. Thing is all the components were working before the rebuild. Gona give it a try tomorrow. Anybody have any suggestions? One thing i noticed was the spark plug cap pulled off the line that goes into it. I noticed the wires were all messed up so i clipped a lil bit off the end. Now this wa waaay after i ran into the non start. Just something i was tryna mess with to get it to turn over.

C-Leigh Racing · « **Reply #55 on:** May 29, 2014, 04:07:32 PM »

Make sure every piece of the ignition is making good contact, like if you painted the cases, clean the paint off the little tabs where the stator mounts so it will be good metal to metal contact. Do the same for the coil, because those contact points could be rusted from sitting.
Normally 9 out of 10 times on the stock OEM TRX ignition system, it is the connectors in the wiring harness not making good contact. You look at them & they look fine, but its hard to see the how dirty they are because they look clean. Might can take a pair of needle nose & press on them a bit to tighten them up.
Mounting points for the engine need to be clean as well, metal to metal.
Neil

patman13mia · « **Reply #56 on:** May 29, 2014, 04:20:03 PM »

thanks for the help neil.. now are you talkin inside the stator cover where the stator mounts are? i didnt paint inside there any. also i think its gota be a connection somewhere but man oh man there is so much shit connected to the wire harness. im gona have to take it all apart and cut the tape on it and get ride of all the old stuff that used to be connected such as tail lights and headlights and start over with that stuff. ill have to post some pics to see if some of yall can help me out

Pumashine · « **Reply #57 on:** May 29, 2014, 04:34:58 PM »

You can check your stator with an ohm meter. If it checks good then 99 percent of the time you get spark.

patman13mia · « **Reply #58 on:** May 29, 2014, 04:43:36 PM »

now where at on the stator am i putting the pin? and also does the other pin go to bear metal? cant be paint covered? i think my grounding wire may be an issue as i cant find a spot to put it and the whole fram is powdercoated. even some powder into the threads

patman13mia · « **Reply #59 on:** May 29, 2014, 04:45:47 PM »

also ive heard of the stator sounds like it has marbles in it then its bad. i think mine does, but it always has and its always worked no issues. also is there a way to see if im gettin spark at the spark plug? i think the method is with a screwdriver or even with the spark plug in the boot and connected to metal while being kicked over. has anybody else done this before??