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Author Topic: motor rebuild thread  (Read 33763 times)

Offline Jerry Hall

motor rebuild thread
« Reply #45 on: June 03, 2014, 11:55:45 AM »
Quote from: udontknowme;35690
The whole thing is made in China


Yes.............yes.................yes.


I still do some engine design consulting for engine manufactures.  One of the companies moved all of there manufacturing operations to China about 4 or 5 years ago.  The drawings and necessary information was used to make the prototype engines.  The engines were dyno and field-tested.  The prototype engines met all of the design criteria and exceed all of the performance and reliability testing.  Mass production started and customers immediately started having problems.  

We started testing materials, heat treats and machine tolerances.  None of the specifications were met in any of these areas.  The owner of this company eventually moved to China.  He had to make this move to monitor and watch every aspect of the manufacturing process to keep these companies from taking every imaginable short cut.  

He still catches them trying to steel the aluminum ingots he supplies of a specific alloy used for casting cylinder and cases and throws scrap aluminum of unknown alloy into the furnace to replace the stolen ingots.

He has caught them not using enough heat when forging connecting rods and crank webs.  

He has caught them taking parts out of the heat treat oven to soon.

He has caught them using the wrong size wire when winding ignition coils and stators.

He has caught them not using enough silicon and tungsten carbide in the cylinder plating process.


The list just goes on and on and on what these people will do to try to save money when they are not watched like hawks.  He has been successful in getting the manufacturing bugs eliminated since he lives there and oversees all of the manufacturing operations.  According to company owner the reliability issues have vanished since he is getting engines that are manufactured to our original design specification.  Any time he has to come back to the USA for anything he shuts down all manufacturing until he gets back.

He told me all of the American companies are having the same problems but the owners of most of these American companies are not willing to move there to oversee the day to day operations.  They usually hire a Chinese "manufacturing experts" to oversee the day to day manufacturing operations but that is like hiring a fox to watch the chicken house.

Again...........You usually get what you pay for.

Offline CeaserTheThird

motor rebuild thread
« Reply #46 on: June 04, 2014, 04:20:39 AM »
Anything made in China, Run!!!

Offline udontknowme

motor rebuild thread
« Reply #47 on: June 11, 2014, 01:29:21 AM »
ill bet these are some chinese or taiwan time bombs  :glee:



to much power is almost enough

Offline kidder86

motor rebuild thread
« Reply #48 on: June 11, 2014, 09:23:33 AM »
is the oring on the exhaust manifold some special oring, or will any oring that fits do the trick?

Offline Jerry Hall

motor rebuild thread
« Reply #49 on: June 11, 2014, 11:33:15 AM »
Quote from: udontknowme;36299
ill bet these are some chinese or taiwan time bombs  :glee:





That looks like a Wiseco con rod???


Are those 125s or 250s???

Offline udontknowme

motor rebuild thread
« Reply #50 on: June 11, 2014, 09:43:44 PM »
wisecos were mostly black from what ive seen so im sure thats what they are. older hotrods ive seen were grey but maybe some were black.  theyre either 125 or 250 not exactly sure i got the pics from another site
to much power is almost enough

Offline kidder86

motor rebuild thread
« Reply #51 on: June 11, 2014, 09:44:11 PM »
just noticed my waterpump is missing the separator #5 in the parts diagram
http://www.ronniesmailorder.com/fiche_section_detail.asp?section=2462581&category=ATVs&make=Honda&year=1986&fveh=131356
what does this part do and why would someone take it out?
« Last Edit: June 12, 2014, 05:25:55 AM by kidder86 »

Offline udontknowme

motor rebuild thread
« Reply #52 on: June 11, 2014, 09:47:54 PM »
you must meen #5. ive quit trying to guess why people do stupid shit like that. probly the same people that pry off the flywheel with screwdrivers
to much power is almost enough

Offline Grande huevos

motor rebuild thread
« Reply #53 on: June 11, 2014, 11:00:34 PM »
I would return the wiseco rod and get a pro x rod kit and have your oem crank rebuilt with it. Get you a new piston and take it and the cylinder to your machine shop and have them do the bore and hone.. I myself have used the all balls crank bearings in two motors now with absolutely zero issues! They have the 8 balls instead of 7 and they are the koyo/japan bearings same as oem. My advice would be to take your time and do it the way you want it and are going to Be happy with it the first time. even if it takes a little longer to save some cash to Do it right. That way you know it's solid and you won't regret it later

Offline kidder86

motor rebuild thread
« Reply #54 on: June 12, 2014, 05:26:42 AM »
im wondering if the missing separator caused the motor to overheat??

Offline kidder86

motor rebuild thread
« Reply #55 on: June 17, 2014, 09:33:11 PM »
I started to assemble the top end (67mm piston stock stroke) and with the .039" and 0.030" base gaskets and the 3mm spacer plate the top of the piston is flush with the top of the cylinder. The head is stock.  I did the UCCR and used 20cc of motor oil. (not sure how accurate my UCCR test was). according to calculations the UCCR is 13.69. does this sound right? what octane gas do I need for this motor? where does the piston sit on stock motor at TDC?
« Last Edit: June 17, 2014, 10:43:12 PM by kidder86 »

Offline udontknowme

motor rebuild thread
« Reply #56 on: June 18, 2014, 01:21:48 AM »
i think everyone has their own way of doing it but where the piston  ends up in relation to the cylinder top is of little importance when i work on a engine. that can always be adjusted by either cutting the cylinder top or the head. i like to know what the starting point of my port timing is and where the bottom of the transfers will be and go from there. is your spacer plate just to offset a different rod or wristpin height ?
to much power is almost enough

Offline kidder86

motor rebuild thread
« Reply #57 on: June 18, 2014, 09:19:40 AM »
yes the spacer is for the 87 rod and the 86 piston setup

Offline kidder86

motor rebuild thread
« Reply #58 on: June 19, 2014, 12:46:49 PM »
motor is back together, used the 3mm spacer plate 0.039" and the 0.030" base gaskets. the top of the piston comes up flush with the top of the cylinder. will see how much compression there is when I put it back in the bike and kick it over!! ended up getting an airstriker 38mm carb instead of the 38mm PJ!! as well as a boyseen reed valve, don't want to risk a broken intake boot ever.

Offline udontknowme

motor rebuild thread
« Reply #59 on: June 22, 2014, 07:52:00 PM »
aftermarket crank failures seem to be so common anymore that i hardly pay attention but i seen this one today. bearing seized up. he got off lucky and wont need a new set of cases  http://www.thumpertalk.com/topic/1091833-2001-kx250-seized-connecting-rod/
to much power is almost enough

 

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