Author Topic: motor rebuild thread (Read 33029 times)

kidder86 · « **Reply #15 on:** May 24, 2014, 03:09:45 PM »

the crank slid out from the bearings real easy. to put the bearings pack in place I plan on freezing the new bearings and warming up the cases in the oven and hopefully they will slide right in by hand or a light tap in the outer race with a hammer.

fearlessfred · « **Reply #16 on:** May 24, 2014, 04:25:11 PM »

Quote from: kidder86;34722

I am hoping someone here can guide me into what year cylinder/head is the best to use with what year crank rod and piston manufacturer, ect. Is it better to get a new rod or get a new crank. I have a good local machine to do all the work.

there are lots of combos that work,save yourself money ,time and heartache by using a well know 250r builder and not a machinist arlen ,jerry or neil is who come to mind, now is the time to upgrade to a way stronger motor

kidder86 · « **Reply #17 on:** May 24, 2014, 04:43:47 PM »

I don't have the money to send my whole motor out to the USA for a rebuild, labor costs and shipping costs are too much. If there was a good engine builder in Ontario or Quebec than it might be a different story. there is enough information and help on this forum to get me through the rebuild. The machine shop that is local is specifically for atv's and snowmobiles ect, so they know what they are doing. I have been researching and am now thinking about doing my motor as a 1987 rod, using the 86 cylinder and piston. I think this will make me need a 3/16" spacer plate.

thesmith87250r · « **Reply #18 on:** May 24, 2014, 05:10:29 PM »

if ya got the motor that far apart on your own you don't need to send ot out for a rebuild . do it yourself . only thing ya need to figure out is what your Putin back in.

Jerry Hall · « **Reply #19 on:** May 24, 2014, 07:07:59 PM »

Quote from: kidder86;34677

last compression check was 150psi was using regular gas 87 octane. new build is getting a 2002 cr250 ignition.

I will try to help you with some analysis of the cause and what to do when I have time..... I do not think that putting a CR250 ignition is going to prevent this from happening again. Use the money you were planning to spend on the ignition to rebuild the engine right..

Using the 1986 piston will will require a spacer plate if you use the long rod. I would not use the 1987 to 1989 piston with the intake port shape you have.
.

kidder86 · « **Reply #20 on:** May 25, 2014, 06:04:14 AM »

I appreciate all the input I can get here. I have already purchased the cr250 ignition over the winter before the motor disaster. is there any piston and rod manufacturers to avoid?

fearlessfred · « **Reply #21 on:** May 25, 2014, 12:33:19 PM »

Quote from: kidder86;34804

I appreciate all the input I can get here. I have already purchased the cr250 ignition over the winter before the motor disaster. is there any piston and rod manufacturers to avoid?

no wiesco cranks,I would wait till jerry answers, he is a great source of information,as well as others on here

kidder86 · « **Reply #22 on:** May 25, 2014, 02:36:48 PM »

thinking about a wiesce rod in the stock crank, Pro-x piston and the all balls crank bearings and seal kit, the all balls are supposed to be koyo bearings.

kidder86 · « **Reply #23 on:** May 25, 2014, 02:39:45 PM »

If I am using the 5mm spacer plate on the cylinder will I need longer studs? or should I use bolts?

udontknowme · « **Reply #24 on:** May 25, 2014, 03:40:51 PM »

honestly i would stick with honda badged bearings and seals and gaskets. only because its a guessing game what youll get in the aftermarket kits. sometimes trying to save a couple dollars can bite you later. prox is the way to go on a rod. if you can buy a honda rod then it wouldnt be a bad choice either but im not sure they sell em seperate. i dont care for cast pistons so your on your own there :glee:

if the stud was at the top of the nut or slightly above without a spacer then i think its best to use longer ones. i prefer to have the stud slightly above the nut so all threads have contact

fearlessfred · « **Reply #25 on:** May 25, 2014, 03:56:57 PM »

Im not sure but I think the oem cr 500 bearings are the ones you want to get,Tony (PUMASHINE) may have the longer studs and spacer plate.Personaly I have all ways had good luck with cast pistons ,so for me the prox would be my choice or oem if you could find one. these are just my opinions and suggest letting others chime in before spending your money.

GO OVRIT · « **Reply #26 on:** May 25, 2014, 04:40:32 PM »

I checked around a couple places and the price of rebuilding a honda crank with a new rod was more than buying a new hot rods crank. I have had a couple hot rods and never had any problems.

kidder86 · « **Reply #27 on:** May 25, 2014, 04:56:16 PM »

I thought about the hotrods crank but the cheapest one I can find is $260, with the shipping and import charges. prices in Canada are ridiculous, this is why I would rather get the crank rebuilt. plus if I buy all my parts from one source, shipping is cheaper

Pumashine · « **Reply #28 on:** May 25, 2014, 05:05:03 PM »

The longer studs needed for the spacer plate is Honda part# 92900-100553B the 55 is the 55mm in length. The stock one is Honda part# 92900-10045-3B which is 45mm in length. Seems like all you would need is a stud 5mm longer but the part# 92900-10050-3B does not exist. I have 32 of the 10 x 55 studs left

kidder86 · « **Reply #29 on:** May 25, 2014, 05:24:10 PM »

thanks pumashine, I will need 4 of them and a 3/16" spacer plate