TRX250r.org

Author Topic: engine failure  (Read 13338 times)

Offline johnny22

engine failure
« on: May 26, 2014, 11:37:02 AM »
well guys, looks like this cylinder and crank are done. Ran very well for the time that I had it but time to move on.  any input is welcome.
Its pretty heartbreaking.... almost like a really bad breakup. But the bright side is that it took out my dads bike a couple times (his bike still has a lot of potential left in the setup), took out john safarians 420 a couple times and ran with a few alky shees and a beat a couple of 4 strokes this weekend

Offline Pumashine

engine failure
« Reply #1 on: May 26, 2014, 11:48:47 AM »
Alot of guys don't think about replacing the wrist pin bearing or rod bearing when they do a rebuild. Does look like you were having fun up until this point.
Puma 408, Puma 431,  Pilot 412, Puma 431, Mini-tooth 486 Trx450r
89mm  Mini tooth Shearer in frame pipe chromed! With Cascade  Q

Offline Jerry Hall

engine failure
« Reply #2 on: May 26, 2014, 01:15:17 PM »
I have seen this type of connecting rod failure many time on the aftermarket connecting rods but never on an OEM Honda rod. Who manufactured the connecting rod??

Show us both sides of the connecting rod so that we can identify the con rod manufacturer.

Offline johnny22

engine failure
« Reply #3 on: May 26, 2014, 01:26:02 PM »
its a pro x rod by ESR. I will post pics of it once I get it apart. I cant get the rod to pull up.  its sitting on the table still. haven't had the money to get it in a chassis yet.  I was getting close but now this happened

Offline udontknowme

engine failure
« Reply #4 on: May 26, 2014, 01:31:10 PM »
shit happens unfortunatly sometimes. thats first prox rod ive ever seen broke
to much power is almost enough

Offline Rupp250

engine failure
« Reply #5 on: May 26, 2014, 07:06:55 PM »
Johnny, want to sell the saber to pay for this little mishap????????

Did you get the lectron to run correctly? and John Safarian is a hoot. Him and his son stopped and shot the bull with us for a while.
DRAG- Puma in a Ziggy Chassis
TRAIL -86  250R ported stock cylinder
DUNER -86 250R  Flinstone

Offline johnny22

engine failure
« Reply #6 on: May 26, 2014, 08:33:40 PM »
Haha nooo that saber is stay in with me man. Sorry. Nah I switched to my other carb. Didn't feel like dealing with it. Man john is awesome. Always fun talking to him and racing him

Offline kb250r

engine failure
« Reply #7 on: May 26, 2014, 08:59:49 PM »
Ahhh the life of a drag racer..."It's go or blow baby"....sorry about the carnage....
Atc - 350 6mill
Atc - 350 4mill
Trx - 431 puma

Engineered by C-Leigh Racing

Offline johnny22

engine failure
« Reply #8 on: May 26, 2014, 09:20:09 PM »
haha right? lesson learned... onto the next one $$$ haha

Offline udontknowme

engine failure
« Reply #9 on: May 27, 2014, 12:46:13 AM »
johnny what about cr500 rod next time. i thought about it on my 300 . even bought a old used snomo piston from ebay to see how i could make it all fit together . 19mm spacer plate would get a few strange looks   :jumping0041:
to much power is almost enough

Offline jadleybray

engine failure
« Reply #10 on: May 27, 2014, 12:50:21 AM »
Johnny, I had a similar failure on my first oem drag cylinder.  Lost the wrist pin bearing, then rod, then piston just as it appears you have.  Bad feeling right there, something that doesn't let you forget quickly.  I'm impressed she was hangin with Safarian's 420.  NICE!!!

Offline johnny22

engine failure
« Reply #11 on: May 27, 2014, 12:50:58 AM »
Haha 19 mm plate would look fishy to every one. What are the options for an upgraded 5 mil rod?

Offline jadleybray

engine failure
« Reply #12 on: May 27, 2014, 12:52:06 AM »
ktm 380 is a great rod too, much lighter than the cr500 with limited big end clearancing for strokers

Offline johnny22

engine failure
« Reply #13 on: May 27, 2014, 12:55:18 AM »
So both of those are definite upgrades over the pro x rod that was in there?

Offline udontknowme

engine failure
« Reply #14 on: May 27, 2014, 01:16:06 AM »
380 rod is a expensive bugger at $250 and it can only be bought through ktm as far as im aware. theres also a 129 and 132 rod but i dont know much about them so maybe theres a aftermarket source so you dont break your wallet.

i got looking and found the 380 is plug and play on my ktm300 so ill probly give it a shot, its just a matter of adding the spacer plate. my intention was to dyno before and after with nothing changed but the rod only for curiousity to see what happens. ill set the cylinder back to the same height and try to keep everything as close to the same as possible. which reminds me i gotta make a dyno post and hopefully jerry or arlen can answer a question


to much power is almost enough

 

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