Author Topic: electric cooling fan (Read 16762 times)

All250R · « **Reply #30 on:** June 23, 2014, 11:55:09 PM »

Quote from: aberegg05;37247

Really??? I thought this was a trx250r forum. Ill never sell my R for a boring 4 poke. People don't realize the environment I ride in isn't the dunes I can't run 60mph the whole time and my stock rad isn't up to the task of cooling my 330 stroker. I was just trying to find a cheaper alternative to keep my engine cooler in the tight trails than buying a $500 radiator. Thanks matt

How long are you running at low rpms for before you reach the temperature you're having problems with, and what is that temperature, and if there are any, what problems?

jcs003 · « **Reply #31 on:** June 24, 2014, 06:42:56 AM »

what coolant are you using. many guys switched to engine ice or something comparable and it basically eliminated their overheating issues.

john

rablack21 · « **Reply #32 on:** June 24, 2014, 09:01:29 AM »

I'm afraid there is no cheap solution to your problem. Anytime you go up to a bigger bore cylinder, you increase the heat rejection requirement of your engine. When you do that, you have to then match that heat rejection by your cooling system. Basically the only two ways to raise that rejection capacity of your cooling system is to either increase the area of your heat exchanger(radiator) or increase the airflow. Increasing the area of the radiator means buying an expensive, larger radiator. And to increase the air flow, you either need to run a fan or ride faster. lol. Of course, I understand that you are not able to ride faster due to the trails that you ride. So what is happening is that your cooling system is not meeting the heat rejection required by the engine at a temp in value that is in an acceptable range while you are riding relatively slow. Of course, while you are riding slow, your airflow through the radiator is very little. You can try a larger radiator, but it is difficult to say with 100% certainty that it will be enough. The fan is probably the better choice for your application, but will not be super easy or cheap to do. Both of your options are going to be pretty expensive.

aberegg05 · « **Reply #33 on:** June 24, 2014, 09:34:43 AM »

Quote from: All250R;37395

How long are you running at low rpms for before you reach the temperature you're having problems with, and what is that temperature, and if there are any, what problems?

No problems with engine. When the trails get tight for more than 10 mins she's 220+

aberegg05 · « **Reply #34 on:** June 24, 2014, 09:36:09 AM »

Quote from: jcs003;37416

what coolant are you using. many guys switched to engine ice or something comparable and it basically eliminated their overheating issues.

john

I'm running hyper lube (I think that's what its called) and distilled water

aberegg05 · « **Reply #35 on:** June 24, 2014, 09:37:28 AM »

Quote from: rablack21;37425

I'm afraid there is no cheap solution to your problem. Anytime you go up to a bigger bore cylinder, you increase the heat rejection requirement of your engine. When you do that, you have to then match that heat rejection by your cooling system. Basically the only two ways to raise that rejection capacity of your cooling system is to either increase the area of your heat exchanger(radiator) or increase the airflow. Increasing the area of the radiator means buying an expensive, larger radiator. And to increase the air flow, you either need to run a fan or ride faster. lol. Of course, I understand that you are not able to ride faster due to the trails that you ride. So what is happening is that your cooling system is not meeting the heat rejection required by the engine at a temp in value that is in an acceptable range while you are riding relatively slow. Of course, while you are riding slow, your airflow through the radiator is very little. You can try a larger radiator, but it is difficult to say with 100% certainty that it will be enough. The fan is probably the better choice for your application, but will not be super easy or cheap to do. Both of your options are going to be pretty expensive.

Your right on that. I've looked up both options. A radiator may even be cheaper.

rablack21 · « **Reply #36 on:** June 24, 2014, 09:44:23 AM »

Quote from: aberegg05;37428

Your right on that. I've looked up both options. A radiator may even be cheaper.

Yes, I believe so as well. You can get a new radiator from AFco for $369, with is a dual pass. You can get a PWR radiator from ESR for $399, which are a single pass. Both options are more than likely cheaper than a fan, unfortunately. With all these big bores out these days, a fan would be a big plus for alot of us. But I run a CR 250 ignition myself, and there is really no good option at all to even run a fan with one of those.

Tbone07 · « **Reply #37 on:** June 24, 2014, 09:47:18 AM »

I think a monster radiator will be the cheapest and most reliable option. Not sure where we would ever find the room to mount a battery on these things. That just sounds like a hassle

All I need is for a fan to run for 2 hours without stopping, enough to cover the time elapsed in an XC race

Grande huevos · « **Reply #38 on:** June 24, 2014, 11:19:49 AM »

What if you fabbed your rear grab bar to somthin like a "six pack rack" to hold a battery?? or down on the frame in front I think would be the only options. If you went the radiator route I would go with a dual pass such as the Afco over a single pass, also the bigger radiators not not hold more coolant but they have bigger surface area with more fins = more air flow!
If you have a scooped hood you could fab up a duct to force the air to the radiator. It may be minimal but every bit helps!

aberegg05 · « **Reply #39 on:** June 24, 2014, 10:09:40 PM »

Where can I get an afco radiator?

Bio86 · « **Reply #40 on:** June 24, 2014, 11:04:16 PM »

Here is where I threw my battery, bike is all torn apart so could get a decent picture. Running DC system with cr250 ignition. Definitely not enough juice to power a fan with the cr but at least its an idea for location. Just have two separate pos/neg so I can charge it easier. If you have a HO stator already its like $150 max to do it.

Bio86 · « **Reply #41 on:** June 24, 2014, 11:10:39 PM »

Dang won't let me upload pic from phone

Bio86 · « **Reply #42 on:** June 25, 2014, 08:16:35 AM »

Tbone07 · « **Reply #43 on:** June 25, 2014, 10:40:51 AM »

That's a good idea but I still don't think batteries and fans and all that crap will be reliable. The best way will be a bigger radiator

rablack21 · « **Reply #44 on:** June 25, 2014, 11:37:36 AM »

Quote from: Tbone07;37556

That's a good idea but I still don't think batteries and fans and all that crap will be reliable. The best way will be a bigger radiator

I agree with you on that, but a larger radiator may only have a minimal effect if airflow is still very low. Now, how much that effect actually results in is hard to determine. With that said, I also would try a larger radiator before trying to get a fan to work. Yes, it might be a bit of a gamble and cost more if you had to buy both, but a larger radiator is easier to obtain and install. Even though it is nice to have a radiator that just drops in like an OEM fit, I personally would go with the dual pass afco. From my experience, dual pass heat exchangers work better, especially with space restrictions.