Author Topic: What can you guys tell me about this motor from pics only?? (Read 4243 times)

Transmatic · « **on:** August 22, 2014, 03:18:13 PM »

I just stumbled on this site yesterday and promptly joined. I've been searching for a good 250r for about 4 months now but haven't found what I want yet. Going to look at 2 different 250r's tomorrow and I have a question about one. The owner says it's an '88 frame but he wasn't sure if the motor was an '87, '88 or '88. Just thought I'd post a few pics to see what you guys can tell me before I go to check this thing out tomorrow.

pinned250r · « **Reply #1 on:** August 22, 2014, 03:57:25 PM »

i think i see the 88-89 cases. What does he say is done to the engine? 86 piston by chance? or a 4mil stroker?!?! Those are OEM plastics though!

Transmatic · « **Reply #2 on:** August 22, 2014, 04:07:25 PM »

Thanks for the feedback thus far guys. The motor is fresh off a rebuild, haven't gotten in to the nitty gritty details of motor work, we talked over the phone earlier this week and he spouted off a bunch of stuff that it had me slightly overwhelmed. Says it just needs to be tuned so that the jetting is just right. Has elka stage 3's, lone star axel, beadlocks, etc.

If I decide to purchase I actually will be looking to get rid of the plastics and restore it to the more original looking red 1988 plastics.

Bowtie316 · « **Reply #3 on:** August 22, 2014, 04:26:51 PM »

I see a spacer plate, and as pinned commented, this would indicate either a 4mil stroker or the use of a short rod piston. If I remember right, the only time one would use a short rod piston on a long rod motor is when the bore size gets above 68mm.

Also, not sure what that regulator/needle valve is hanging down on the left size, I don't know what that would be for.

Transmatic · « **Reply #4 on:** August 22, 2014, 04:53:01 PM »

I have confirmed that the motor contains a long rod with an '86 piston, not a stroker.

Anything I should really pay extra close attention to? Like I said, it will need to be tuned to run just right so not sure exactly how it will sound tmrw when I start it up but I just want to make sure I'm not buying a bad motor. I'm still learning about the 2 strokers, been on a 4 stroker all my life and just started really learning about motors and stuff about 2 years ago.

kb250r · « **Reply #5 on:** August 22, 2014, 08:49:17 PM »

be aware of any loud or weird knocking,leaking,be sure she shifts smoothly through gears.check for welds or repairs on cases,and check frame over at weld joints as trx frames a known for cracking in certain high stress areas.these could all effect price/value...hope this helped a little..

rk88r · « **Reply #6 on:** August 22, 2014, 08:57:21 PM »

I like to stand 'em up on the grab bar to aid inspection. Axle bearings and swingarm bearings are commonly worn out. Wiggle it around to check them. When it's stood up and after ensuring the bearings are tight then take a tape measure from the axle forward to a few points to check for straightness.

Transmatic · « **Reply #7 on:** August 22, 2014, 09:10:41 PM »

Thanks for the feedback fellas. I generally look things over with a fine tooth comb, but I'll be sure to pay extra attention to those welds. Good call on standing it up to get a better look.

This guy has tons of parts he's trying to get rid of as well, like boxes. I'm still new to the 250r's, can someone tell me a few different parts that are considered "gems" or just hard to fins in general? I'm sure there are certain parts you die hards are always keeping an eye out on craigslist or feebay for.

rk88r · « **Reply #8 on:** August 22, 2014, 09:18:51 PM »

Nice oem plastic is gold.

Transmatic · « **Reply #9 on:** August 22, 2014, 09:25:41 PM »

This quad has the OEM white plastics but no decals, and I plan to sell or trade them. He's got boxes and boxes of stuff, carbs, pipes, radiators, etc. I'll have to scrub eBay and get a better idea of what some of these parts typically go for.

udontknowme · « **Reply #10 on:** August 22, 2014, 09:30:46 PM »

check the cases real good for any jb welded areas or striped out bolts like the oil drain plug. defintaly be sure it shifts well through the gears. these type of inspections should be done before buying a bike regardless what kind it is

a question for the guys more familiar with these engines. wouldnt a short rod piston on a long rod indicate the cylinder is about shot or no ? i hardly have a clue about these 250r but im learning as well

Transmatic · « **Reply #11 on:** August 22, 2014, 10:54:28 PM »

While studying up on these machines I've noticed a lot of guys running the long rod crank with an '86 piston. I believe it requires a 3.5mm spacer plate. But I'll let the experts confirm.

udontknowme · « **Reply #12 on:** August 23, 2014, 12:12:02 AM »

well what i was refering to is the '86 piston in a later year cylinder. you didnt mention the piston size but i was thinking this may or may not indicate they have exceeded all the available piston sizes for that cylinder and went to the '86 piston to get a couple extra bores before it needs a resleeve. hence my comment that it might be on borrowed time. then again it might be a fairly new cylinder and they used '86 piston for other reasons

Transmatic · « **Reply #13 on:** August 23, 2014, 01:03:05 AM »

Good pt, I hadn't thought about that. Glad you mentioned, I'll def get him to explain the reason for the setup. Hopefully the rest of the quad looks and sounds good.

rsss396 · « **Reply #14 on:** August 23, 2014, 07:36:15 AM »

86 piston is generally accepted as the better piston for performance because of the large intake cutaway instead of the full skirt piston on the 87-89