Author Topic: methanol setup (Read 22596 times)

udontknowme · « **Reply #30 on:** July 22, 2013, 01:21:44 AM »

well thats what i was gonna make is a adapter plate. screw the plate to the tank using the existing screw holes from the stock fuel valve then screw the pingle to the plate. had some 6061 plate sitting around that should work good but maybe it would be easier to use the esr unit if it will fit. by the way this isnt a 250r its a old ktm. whats the esr adaptor look like and is it 1/4 or 3/8 npt ? ? was thinking of 1/4npt with a 5/16 outlet and hose to the pump

rsss396 · « **Reply #31 on:** July 22, 2013, 06:45:29 AM »

Pingle sells that plate with their valves, it will have pipe threads in a plate with 2 holes so you can bolt the valve to the tank with the factory O-ring in between

udontknowme · « **Reply #32 on:** July 23, 2013, 02:25:40 AM »

heres the tank and ill drill this hole like the green line then i mount the plate to the screw holes. atvfan the screw holes are 1-5/16 center to center. not sure what those esr ones are. they probly use large bolts though. this one is small screws. it wont be no trouble to make a adaptor plate but you think it would be fine if i used a gasket and some type of sealer between the plate and tank or even just sealer ? think i got some .010" klingersil laying around

rsss396 · « **Reply #33 on:** July 23, 2013, 06:47:22 AM »

you can try,
when we put troys saber in the drag chassis and used a tank that had been sitting around without use for 10 years the oring leaked after installing a pingle valve.
So I took a old crankcase gasket and made a oring like gasket slightly bigger than the oring and ssandwiched it between the alum plate and oring with just a little 3bond smeared on it. worked perfect for the weekend
The gasket acted like a shim to squeeze the oring harder.

If you take a hole saw and a drill press you can make a oring groove the alum plate you are making if you do not have access to a milling machine.
If the gas tank is thick enough you can oring it instead like honda does then you just use a flat plate

udontknowme · « **Reply #34 on:** July 26, 2013, 12:52:09 AM »

Quote from: rsss396;4200

mine is a pe1 but I dont think it matters to much because that groove cut in the needle is done by packard so what ever the needle was it isnt anymore
My needle is set at 50.5mm on the 50mm, but I run them rich

carb i have was from packard. needle is adjusted 2mm out farther than what you got which meens it would be leaner correct ?. do you think he set it to a certain length before he shipped it or should i put it closer to what you got and see what happens ?

Polonda · « **Reply #35 on:** July 26, 2013, 02:11:47 AM »

Packard usually sets them. Wouldn't hurt to richer it up though. Always better to start richer than leaner in my opinion.

rsss396 · « **Reply #36 on:** July 26, 2013, 07:36:00 AM »

Packards usually pretty close start there or 1 turn richer and try it, every motor is differant.

udontknowme · « **Reply #37 on:** July 27, 2013, 07:59:05 PM »

made the adaptor plate and tapped the fuel valve threads. fuel valve will be here monday then ill install everything. probly gonna use a gasket and sealer. im thinking that should work fine but if not ill look into a oring. drilled out the gas cap today to use a 1/2" ID hose. i figure that should be sufficient. what size you guys using for the breather hose ?

Polonda · « **Reply #38 on:** July 27, 2013, 08:27:34 PM »

1/2 inch is huge. Should have plenty of breathing room. Not sure what size I drilled mine, however I do know I still use a sr adware size hose.

udontknowme · « **Reply #39 on:** July 28, 2013, 02:24:20 AM »

1/2 might be a bit overkill hek i m not sure. one less thing to worry about i guess. had some hose sitting around and it fit perfectly in the gas cap hole so i just drilled the center out.

rsss396 · « **Reply #40 on:** July 28, 2013, 05:05:26 PM »

Well that's pretty big

. If you have issues with that setup then try threading a pipe to hose fitting in there 1/4-3/8 is normally as big as you need.

udontknowme · « **Reply #41 on:** July 30, 2013, 02:10:03 AM »

its nothin fancy but i think it should work. made a gasket to go between the adaptor plate and tank with some hondabond or something like that and teflon tape on the threads

udontknowme · « **Reply #42 on:** August 01, 2013, 03:17:15 AM »

made the hole for vaccum. put it in location thats not obstructed

udontknowme · « **Reply #43 on:** August 10, 2013, 12:54:05 AM »

looks like i can use the stock airbox setup with boot,filter etc. the boot where it attaches to the back of the carb was intended for pwk with has a 2-1/2" OD bell. lectron is 2-3/8" . its not real loose but definatly i should use something to take up the slack. i was thinking to wrap some electrical or duck tape on the OD of the bell to make it alittle bigger so the boot will fit snug. think this will work fine or is there something better?

was gonna put the fuel pump in the airbox agaisnt the back wall. might sound stupid but im thinking of cutting a sqaure hole like a flap in the back of the airbox and put a hinge on it so i can open it like a door and the pump would be mounted to it on the inside. then i could open it and the pump would be out of the way to change the filter .

udontknowme · « **Reply #44 on:** August 10, 2013, 05:33:45 PM »

changed out the bearings today. well all except the drum bearings which were still good and obsolete so theyre impossible to get anyways. i use only oem stuff. seen em go many years so theres no point in rolling the dice on oddball kits of unknown qaulity. got rid of the ball bearing behind the clutch and went with a roller style. you can sort of see the trenching. ended up with .020" at the tighest point which should be fine i hope. if not i guess it will clearance itself HAHAHAA

in the oven

halway

new bearings in