Author Topic: methanol setup (Read 21931 times)

Polonda · « **Reply #45 on:** August 10, 2013, 10:02:25 PM »

Looking good. What did you use to trench the cases?

atv fan 28 · « **Reply #46 on:** August 10, 2013, 11:04:15 PM »

Quote from: udontknowme;7947

looks like i can use the stock airbox setup with boot,filter etc. the boot where it attaches to the back of the carb was intended for pwk with has a 2-1/2" OD bell. lectron is 2-3/8" . its not real loose but definatly i should use something to take up the slack. i was thinking to wrap some electrical or duck tape on the OD of the bell to make it alittle bigger so the boot will fit snug. think this will work fine or is there something better?

was gonna put the fuel pump in the airbox agaisnt the back wall. might sound stupid but im thinking of cutting a sqaure hole like a flap in the back of the airbox and put a hinge on it so i can open it like a door and the pump would be mounted to it on the inside. then i could open it and the pump would be out of the way to change the filter .

rsss suggested to me that i epoxy a piece of pipe to my carb that way i could run a larger ID filter... Which would be a lot better than using tape.

udontknowme · « **Reply #47 on:** August 11, 2013, 04:42:57 AM »

Quote from: atv fan 28;8032

rsss suggested to me that i epoxy a piece of pipe to my carb that way i could run a larger ID filter... Which would be a lot better than using tape.

thnx for the idea. sounds like a better idea than tape. this is my first experience with this sort of issue. you meen plumbers plastic pipe or what kind ?

udontknowme · « **Reply #48 on:** August 11, 2013, 04:46:32 AM »

Quote from: Polonda;8021

Looking good. What did you use to trench the cases?

the cases already had a factory trench so i just took it and went down another .030 or so. used a flex attachment hooked to a dremel with a sanding drum. used a magic marker and painted the area i was grinding so each pass it would grind off the marker and would keep it more uniform if that makes sense. for cases with no existing trench i would recomend having a machinist do it

udontknowme · « **Reply #49 on:** August 11, 2013, 04:58:06 AM »

made it alittle farther and realized it was 2am. better call it a night

these are alittle different in the aspect the crank end float has to be set. book says .006-.010". gotta measure each half and the gasket then subtract your crank width. alot of headache if you dont get it right the first shot and have to pull the races back off. on paper i figured .0055" is what i had after i did all the measuring. crankworks actually set the crank .0025" wider that what i told em even though i sent a paper with specific widths of what it needed to be. i figured in some wiggle room in case they effed up. anyways this is how i measure the halfs.

i install the crank and double check with a indicator just to verify my calculations on paper. indicator said .005. book says .006-.010. close enough for me

ill finish the rest tomorow

udontknowme · « **Reply #50 on:** August 11, 2013, 01:54:08 PM »

everyone using the m1 or different brand ? local place had some no name stuff but they couldnt tell me the manufacturer so i just went and got 15gal m1. $hit is expensive these days. same price as race gas

atv fan 28 · « **Reply #51 on:** August 11, 2013, 02:13:52 PM »

i went to one local speed shop and they had some for $5 a gallon but he couldnt tell me the brand. So i end up going to another place and got VP M1 in the 5 gallon can. It was $60.

atv fan 28 · « **Reply #52 on:** August 11, 2013, 02:19:19 PM »

i went to one local speed shop and they had some for $5 a gallon but he couldnt tell me the brand. So i end up going to another place and got VP M1 in the 5 gallon can. It was $60.

rsss396 · « **Reply #53 on:** August 11, 2013, 08:00:25 PM »

I run both generic methanol and m1 and honestly have not noticed a differance. Even ran methanol sitting in my plastic cans for a month with no issues.

Polonda · « **Reply #54 on:** August 11, 2013, 08:09:31 PM »

My buddy buys Alky by the barrel for his top sportsman car. He has seen absolutely no difference in et running the generic down to a thousandth of a second in the quarter. The generic he runs is just over a 100 bucks a barrel.

I buy from him and run it with no issue either.

Morse250r · « **Reply #55 on:** August 11, 2013, 09:04:42 PM »

I run Sunoco blue barrel Dynoed my bike with Sunoco and vp and there wasn't a diff

udontknowme · « **Reply #56 on:** August 12, 2013, 12:55:39 AM »

damn thought i was gettin screwed. payed something like $153 otd for 3 pails. the generic stuff was same price only a shorter drive to get it.

udontknowme · « **Reply #57 on:** August 12, 2013, 01:12:00 AM »

got the bottom end together but thats as far as i made it. spent alot of time inspecting every part. found a hairline crack in the kickstart shaft. ill see if i can get a pic tomorow. didnt notice at first but just happen to take a second look and seen it. would of sucked a$$ if i went to start it and the kicker broke off hahahahaa. got 2 and 3 of every part for these engines so i just grabbed another shaft out of the stock pile.

dont really care for this clutch design with no cushions and rivets but it is what it is. went with 7075 billet instead of the stocker

udontknowme · « **Reply #58 on:** August 23, 2013, 01:45:52 AM »

is wondering if these pumps can push the fuel up hill alittle bit ? its the black mikuni

udontknowme · « **Reply #59 on:** August 26, 2013, 01:53:21 AM »

wasnt much room to work with so this is what i did. what you guys think ?