Author Topic: methanol setup (Read 20721 times)

rsss396 · « **Reply #15 on:** July 17, 2013, 06:30:26 AM »

give Packard a call I have not seen one but I did ask about one for a customer

udontknowme · « **Reply #16 on:** July 17, 2013, 09:29:15 PM »

i learn something new eveyday. aparently motion pro makes custom cables to any length with any type of end connections to fit pretty much any throttle and carb. so ill figure out exactly what i need and give em a call.

atv fan 28 · « **Reply #17 on:** July 17, 2013, 09:32:22 PM »

Terry Cable can do the same. Plus you can get them in a steel braided in different colors.

http://www.terrycable.com/

rsss396 · « **Reply #18 on:** July 17, 2013, 11:08:00 PM »

terry cable was the only place that I have been able to talk with someone to build a special cable and willing to do it without having to send them the cable, The only thing is twice I asked for the standard cable with chrome or stainless ends and they said OK but sent me standard zinc hardware

udontknowme · « **Reply #19 on:** July 18, 2013, 12:10:45 AM »

ill make a few calls tomorow. should be simple to figure it out. cant recall off the top of my head but i think i just need a barrel on each end of the cable, the sheath will be close to same length as stock then i just measure the length of the cable that i need. only thing im wondering is if this throttle has enough throw to open the lectron all the way ? originally it had a 38pwk. the thwist handle thing has a cam that can be set in mx or enduro positions. the enduro setting has more throw if i recall. mx setting opens a 38pwk in 1/4 turn i think and enduro is 3/8 or 1/2 turn im thinking

if this throttle fully opens a pwk at 1/4 turn and the cam is bottomed out in the throttle housing, that meens it wont open 48 lectron all the way, is that correct ? since the enduro setting can twist farther ill probly have to use that ?

rsss396 · « **Reply #20 on:** July 18, 2013, 06:30:35 AM »

Packard sells the twist throttle for 25.00 that matches the cable he makes seems like the fastest safest way to go and he is right by you

udontknowme · « **Reply #21 on:** July 19, 2013, 03:28:00 AM »

well i learned alot more today. stock throttle and cable will work fine and opens the slide fully in 1/4 turn. but i dont like the little nipple so im gonna get a different cable with a barrel on the slide end. modified the brass thing to slide the cable through because the barrel wont go through. anyways i did some dry test runs with a old cable and it appears to work like greased lightning.

fully open at 1/4 turn

modified the brass deal so i can use a barrel. you can see how the barrel fits in perfect. the nipple type from a pwk would work but didnt look right to me.

udontknowme · « **Reply #22 on:** July 19, 2013, 03:35:42 AM »

tomorow i gotta tackle the pingle issue. dude on the phone said the 3/8npt needs a 9/16 hole but i dont know if he knows what the hell he talking about so ill get that sorted out what size hole it gotta be. so far i got quit a few late to midnight getting this beotch sorted out and it aint over yet. not sure what the hell im gonna do with the pump. guess i figure that out when i get there

udontknowme · « **Reply #23 on:** July 20, 2013, 01:49:37 AM »

is everyone using the metering rod turning tool from lectron or how you doing it ?

jadleybray · « **Reply #24 on:** July 20, 2013, 11:52:08 AM »

lol, never even knew they had a tool for it. I just grab the needle and turn, make sure its facing the correct direction and your good.

udontknowme · « **Reply #25 on:** July 20, 2013, 01:46:24 PM »

it wouldnt turn by hand thats why i wasnt sure. ill go try again maybe its just stuck

udontknowme · « **Reply #26 on:** July 21, 2013, 01:13:01 AM »

few questions.

probly just tap in the transfer port for the vaccum. is that location as good as any other spot ?

im sure its best to keep the vaccum line to the pump as short as possible for a stronger signal but i dont know how close i can get it because im limited on places to mount the pump. im thinking 12" is about the closest ill be able to get. is that gonna work ok ?

not real familiar with these pulse pumps. i know the outlet of the pump pushes the fuel but does the inlet side have some suction to pull it from the tank ? tomorow ill look it over to find the lowest spot possible but right now i dont see no way to get it below the fuel valve. i guess gravity will push it somewhat if i dont have it mounted real high.

rsss396 · « **Reply #27 on:** July 21, 2013, 07:44:52 AM »

12 in is fine just make sure you use a heavy gas line type hose, that way the hose does not flex with the pulses of the motor, meaning the pump will get a stronger signal.

When you mount the pump you really want to utilize gravity if you can, the pumps will suck fuel no matter where you mount it. But the best setup will have it mounted below the pet**** or at least the bottom of the tank and above the carb for the fuel line and above the vacuum port.
If the pump is mounted below the vacuum port then there is some chance of small amounts of oil building up in the pump hurting the performance. If you did a yearly cleaning of the pump then you would be fine with the amount of possible oil buildup

I always drill and tap the reed cage, I dont like disruptions to airflow to the transfers, I drill centered to the side of the V-force reeds, and if the reed cage is very close you can clearance the reed cage some and I always grind down the threads sticking into the reed area of the cylinder. I also take a countersink bit and open the very end of the brass fitting.

There is not allot of flow in and out of the fitting so do not get to worried having allot of open area on the end of the fitting

udontknowme · « **Reply #28 on:** July 22, 2013, 12:48:03 AM »

i didnt get photos yet but i got a few things sorted out today i think. im gonna screw the pingle into a flat piece of alluminum and then mount that setup to the existing hole in the tank with the existing fuel valve screw holes. should be more permanent than just screwing the pingle into the plastic hole. screwing it into a plastic hole is probly a bad idea after i got thinkiong about it. found a good spot to make the vaccum port. side of the intake but its in front of the reeds where the cage comes to a point so the side of the cage wont get in the way. as for the pump i think ill put it in the airbox since it will be empty because ill use a pod type filter. pump will be just slightly above the fuel valve but i think the head pressure of the fuel will partially push it.

atv fan 28 · « **Reply #29 on:** July 22, 2013, 12:52:32 AM »

Quote from: udontknowme;5010

i didnt get photos yet but i got a few things sorted out today i think. im gonna screw the pingle into a flat piece of alluminum and then mount that setup to the existing hole in the tank with the existing fuel valve screw holes. should be more permanent than just screwing the pingle into the plastic hole. i was looking at it and i doubt it would hold up very good. i found a good spot to make the vaccum port. side of the intake but its in front of the reeds where the cage comes to a point so the side of the cage wont get in the way. as for the pump i think ill put it in the airbox since it will be empty because ill use a pod type filter. pump will be just slightly above the fuel valve but i think the head pressure of the fuel will partially push it.

are you sure you dont need the adapter from ESR??? I have a plate that bolts to the tank, then you screw the Pingel into that... I can get pics if you need them??