Author Topic: Running DC without battery (Read 9245 times)

Bio86 · « **on:** October 08, 2014, 09:34:51 AM »

Has anyone used a single phase rect/reg through the factory harness light switch without using a battery for DC lights?

The_Steve_Man · « **Reply #1 on:** October 08, 2014, 11:14:16 AM »

I am running led lights without any problem.

Bio86 · « **Reply #2 on:** October 08, 2014, 11:27:39 AM »

Off AC or doing it with the rect/reg setup?

The_Steve_Man · « **Reply #3 on:** October 08, 2014, 01:08:19 PM »

Just off the taillight plug.

rsss396 · « **Reply #4 on:** October 08, 2014, 01:33:50 PM »

use the full wave rectifier you will get twice the wattage as the 1/2 wave single diode rectifier, just do not ground your DC circuit

Bio86 · « **Reply #5 on:** October 08, 2014, 01:54:01 PM »

That's what it is, it's a newer Ricky Stator one. Similar to Trail Techs. I bought some cheapo 4" led headlights just to try off AC, no go! haha my buddy has the same exact lights on his banshee off AC with no problems yet.

So if I wired that into the factory harness without a battery how would you wire it up? Use the two yellow feed wires from the rect/reg to the stator, one to float the ground, one solders at the factory yellow/white connector at the stator, then the red from the rect/reg then connects to that unsoldered yellow/white wire that goes up to the light switch? Then just omit the factory regulator? What do you do with the black ground off the rect/reg then? Can you ground it to the frame at that point since the stator is floated?

rsss396 · « **Reply #6 on:** October 08, 2014, 02:30:47 PM »

well LED's are a Diode "light emitting diode" so if you have the polarity backwards to the light it will not work, try changing polarity

rsss396 · « **Reply #7 on:** October 08, 2014, 02:34:19 PM »

rsss396 · « **Reply #8 on:** October 08, 2014, 02:36:56 PM »

I dont know the specs on you ricky stator regulator but if I was building a DC system I would run the factory regulator and add the full wave rectifier from radio shack that looks like this and wire it like the example above

Bio86 · « **Reply #9 on:** October 08, 2014, 02:37:50 PM »

Oh it worked until I rev'd it up, then they all went out and started flickering. I probably f'd them up, that was connected directly to the OEM headlight plug on low with AC. Just trying to figure out if my wiring sounds correct before I do it all and burn something up.

Bio86 · « **Reply #10 on:** October 08, 2014, 02:46:59 PM »

That's pretty much exactly what I have to work with for wiring. 2 in AC, 2 out DC. Which wires on the factory harness do each of those connect to is where I'm getting all jacked up. I think my earlier post should work for connection points right?

rsss396 · « **Reply #11 on:** October 08, 2014, 03:03:14 PM »

you will use the yellow and green(ground) as your AC power, from the rectifier you will have a + and - keep those isolated from ground and run them to your light which also needs to be ungrounded

Bio86 · « **Reply #12 on:** October 08, 2014, 03:12:28 PM »

Ok I got it. Thanks man. Keeping it all ungrounded made it clear, finally.

The_Steve_Man · « **Reply #13 on:** October 08, 2014, 04:25:05 PM »

I had my lights hooked to the headlight and it done the exact same thing. Go out when revved up. I was on my way to Waynoka so I had a small battery from a kfx and put it in my air box. Everybody else had theirs run off the taillight. I hooked my lights up yesterday to back to little sahara and ran them off the taillight and they work great.

Bio86 · « **Reply #14 on:** October 08, 2014, 04:59:13 PM »

Weird, must have just enough resistance or something to work off the tails or the switch does something there. I'm going to try it with DC first, if that doesn't work as planned I'll just try the taillight way.

I appreciate the comments guys.