Author Topic: Case Thread Repair (Read 9835 times)

Anthony0327 · « **on:** January 14, 2015, 04:04:02 AM »

Can anyone point me in the right direction of someone who can repair cases and do it right?. I was putting my engine together and torquing my bolts down and stripped a thread. Can't believe this happened! I went by the manual and was even using less torque then it called for. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.

JesseA420 · « **Reply #1 on:** January 14, 2015, 06:55:17 AM »

but a drill, tap, and time-cert insert and take your time

dem3500 · « **Reply #2 on:** January 14, 2015, 07:46:32 AM »

Yea, use a threaded insert. Its actually stronger that way and you don't need to tear down to a bare case.

Pumashine · « **Reply #3 on:** January 14, 2015, 09:57:37 AM »

Quote from: Anthony0327;48680

Can anyone point me in the right direction of someone who can repair cases and do it right?. I was putting my engine together and torquing my bolts down and stripped a thread. Can't believe this happened! I went by the manual and was even using less torque then it called for. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.

Which threaded hole did you strip? Case halves have to be separated. I bought a 6mm, 8mm, and 10mm helicoil thread repair kit. I can send some part#s later. Timeserts for the oil drain plug is around $100. Best to borrow one from a friend.

The procedure is fairly simple. The kit comes with a drill and tap and an assortment of inserts. Just drill, tap and thread in a new insert with the tool provided. Takes about 15 minutes.

dem3500 · « **Reply #4 on:** January 14, 2015, 10:22:19 AM »

I misspoke about not taking the case halva apart. I was thinking you stripped a clutch/stator cover bolt. Too early in the morn lol. Yea how puma described the process is spot on. Its really that easy. Just take your time. Cast aluminum can be fragile.

Anthony0327 · « **Reply #5 on:** January 14, 2015, 12:41:24 PM »

To clarify, the cases are brand new oem and after I did that I split them again because this need to be done correctly. Also I really don't trust myself to make a repair like this. It's the threaded hole directly to the left of the shift shaft area. Also with these time certs, do they come out just like new? Here's a picture of where I stripped.

F-Red · « **Reply #6 on:** January 14, 2015, 12:49:58 PM »

Damn, that sucks balls!! Take your time. It works. Good luck! :encouragement:

dem3500 · « **Reply #7 on:** January 14, 2015, 12:56:45 PM »

I honestly don't know what a time cert is but puma and I are talking about hell coil. They are very simple to use. If you have enough knowledge to split cases then you can use a hell coil. Everything comes in a kit and has instructions. You shouldn't have any problem doing it yourself!

Piney0 · « **Reply #8 on:** January 14, 2015, 01:02:52 PM »

Timsert or helicoil, pick your flavor. If this is something you don't feel comfortable doing, find a local machine shop and see what they would charge to fix it.

JesseA420 · « **Reply #9 on:** January 14, 2015, 01:05:39 PM »

Quote from: Pumashine;48688

Timeserts for the oil drain plug is around $100.

$100?
http://www.mscdirect.com/browse/tn/Threading/Thread-Repair-Reinforcement/Threaded-Inserts/Thread-Locking-Inserts/?navid=12106001+4294914258+4288198876#navid=12106001+4294914258+4288241425+4288241278

drain plug is 12x1.5, you could just get a 12x1.25 or 12.x1.75 plug and use one of these. cheap and will never strip again. i despise helicoils. this is a solid plug with keyed outside diameter threads to prevent it from ever moving again. just watch some youtube vids on thread repair, it is a simple process and no reason to pay shop fees to someone to do it for ya.

Anthony0327 · « **Reply #10 on:** January 14, 2015, 01:09:16 PM »

Anyone know why this might have happened? I'm using stainless steel Allen bolts to assemble everything and I followed the assembly guidelines in the manual exactly. I was tightening in increments I hand tightened everything then went to 10 ft-lb and then I used 18 ft-lb. maybe it's my torque wrench?

JesseA420 · « **Reply #11 on:** January 14, 2015, 01:18:16 PM »

its cast aluminum. i never use a torque wrench on those tiny suckers, i just do it by feel. there may be flaws in the casting.

dem3500 · « **Reply #12 on:** January 14, 2015, 01:19:03 PM »

Stainless gulls really easily. You next to put a dab of grease/oil/anti sieze on any stainless bolt or nut. Even if your using a stainless on stainless fastener. Stainless is really "grabby". There grate to use cause they don't rust but everything has its pros and con's lol

Pumashine · « **Reply #13 on:** January 14, 2015, 01:25:20 PM »

Quote from: JesseA420;48702

$100?
http://www.mscdirect.com/browse/tn/Threading/Thread-Repair-Reinforcement/Threaded-Inserts/Thread-Locking-Inserts/?navid=12106001+4294914258+4288198876#navid=12106001+4294914258+4288241425+4288241278

drain plug is 12x1.5, you could just get a 12x1.25 or 12.x1.75 plug and use one of these. cheap and will never strip again.

I was talking about the whole thread repair kit.

Pumashine · « **Reply #14 on:** January 14, 2015, 01:26:54 PM »

Quote from: Anthony0327;48704

Anyone know why this might have happened?

Your torque wrench was not set correctly or it was not working. 5 ft-lbs will work. 6 is max

Helicoils are stainless steel. You you need some blue to keep them from galling your stainless bolts