ATC250r "Not A Project" Project

[Full Throttle]

Should say "your NOT keeping that front wheel down". Sorry

[TonyD]

Thanks for the encouraging words fellas!

Been a bit since I updated. I got the hinson basket setup and installed. Had to clearance the primary drive gear as noted in instructions. Powder coater got a little heavy on the frame which made install a pain but finally got the motor in successfully!

then I finally got my configuration together for the rear caliper swap to center the rotor in the caliper. So I went to install the lonestar anti-fade onto the lonestar axle and discovered my next "challenge". There is serious interference fit between the axle splines and the internal splines on the anti-fade. I was pissed needless to say after spending the $$ to have such a fundamental issue with new hardware. Bought both pieces at the same time. It was so bad that even though I lubed the splines with anti-sieze, I had to slide a abs pipe over the axle and bang it on (barely) with a 5lb hammer till I could get the snap ring installed and use the threads to jack it the rest of the way on. Not sure how I'm ever going to get it off; maybe with a torch and chopsaw and I'll sent the pieces to Lonestar:mad:

So here is how she sits now. Still need to do leakdown check, then carb, intake pipe and hookup rest of ignition. then maybe I can fire up and see if it all works!:)

[Tbone07]

God that thing looks killer. Awesome job so far, hope you get her finished up soon!

[dem3500]

I just read this from the beginning. You do some nice work. On the chrome PC on your swimger, its hard to tell from your pic but you mentioned about it looking silver and not chrome. If I were to guess I'd say you did not sure the chrome fully before you put the clear on. Normally you would only do a partial cure before doing a clear coat except for any translucent or clear over the chrome powder. Next time cure the chrome powder for a solid hr at temp then let co and do the clear. I've made a plenty of mistakes to learn this lol! But yea, you have a killer build there. Makes me really regret getting rid I'm my time!

[TonyD]

Okay, down to the wire trying to make a last chance maiden voyage to spinreel this weekend. this has taken way longer than i thought but I'm really close.

Got the wiring done aside from a mount for the CR250 cdi box:

Then had to do this to the DG grab bar to clear the tail light brackets?!:mad-new:

But finally got to filling the radiator, oil and gas. then starting working on mounting the pipe. No surprise that the skid plate wouldn't work without moderate surgery so pitched that to the side. Was a little bummed that the bracket/hanger supplied didn't mount up right. Had to make a spacer and elongate the slot to get it to work eventually.
 
So now it looks like this:


Then at 9:00pm last night I tried to see if it would fire up. That's when I discovered 2 things:
1: This has ALOT of compression!
2: While the kickstarter clears the pipe, there is hardly any room for your foot!
 
So unfortunately I didn't get it started; will try again today in daylight. Curious if anyone else has any tips/tricks for this? I hate the thought of having to kickstart it with my toes (as that's all there is room for) especially if it ever kicked back?

[JesseA420]

stick ur foot out to the side and use your heel very carefully

what riding style was your motor ported for? what is the final size? just curious as 10 pdls on a short atc may be a bit over paddled?

[TonyD]

what riding style was your motor ported for? what is the final size? just curious as 10 pdls on a short atc may be a bit over paddled?

Motor is 363 with powervalve; arlen set it up for play duning for me. That being said, I agree the paddles are a bit much especially without a longer swingarm; they're just what I happend to end up with floating around. Also why the rims are chewed up and badly oxidized!:wink-new: I also have an 8 paddle set of skat track edges so I'll probably bring both if I can pull this trip together.

[Steven]

Let us know if you make it, I'm only about an hour away from Reedsport and would love to see/hear that thing run!

Amazing build, such a great looking trike!

Definitely X2 on keeping the front end down with that monster though, Good luck.

[TonyD]

Will do!

well, tried again unsuccessfully to start it this evening:confusion:. I'm starting to get frustrated. I may have an idea for the clearance issue although the compression is insane. Tomorrow I will see if I can push start it once I get the chain on.

[hickwheeler]

maybe ask skeans how he starts his. his kicker barely clears the pipe.

[Skeans1]

I kick with my toe with boots turned part way off the kicker, if you want I can't get you a picture of how my foot is on there. Once it's warm I can kick it in Romeo's. This motor is a 363 sphinx as well with a stock ignition.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G890A using Tapatalk

[TonyD]

I kick with my toe with boots turned part way off the kicker...

Thanks Hickwheeler and Skeans. That's encouraging  that it can at least be done. I think alot of the problem is the compression; granted I'm only 5'10 130lb so don't have alot to throw at it. Trying to perfect my technique (ie: start from TDC) but was unable to start last night either. I wonder if it will be easier once started for the first time? Tonight i will try pulling the plug to make sure it turns over freely, then wonder if I can tow start it if all else fails.

[Skeans1]

Tony I'm only 130 lbs and 5' 6" ish, now I go to top dead and go one click past and bring the kicker back with one full hard kick it'll start with ease. If you need any help pm me your number.

[JesseA420]

roll the motor over a few times slowly before a hard kick, doing this allows mine to fire right up first kick every time.

[TonyD]

Oh god, I just had a horrible revelation as I'm sitting at work....:05.18-flustered:


I can't stop thinking why I am having a hard time starting this after the helpful feedback. I try to find TDC with the kicker but it almost seems like 3 distinct resistance areas close together.....I can't get a full kick out of it.....

When I was putting the cases together I did note the interference with the hot rods connecting rod at the 10:00 and 2:00 position. I took my dremel and sanded clearance in these areas wide enough for the thickness of the rod (or half that in each case) plus maybe 0.060 a side. I installed the crank into the left case and pulled it all the way in with the crank puller. At this point I verified the "trough" clearance was centered about the rod. I temporarily installed the cylinder/piston and rotated the crank and all was well (even with the right case half put on).

Now the hindsight moment:

After I had the case halves together for good (cylinder, piston head, etc) and the motor in the frame, I was installing the primary drive gear onto the crank and torquing to the spec on the manual. In "Hindsight" it came up to the torque value softly (ie: bolt was rotating without sharp increase in torque) prior to ultimately hitting the mark. I'm thinking that this was pulling the crank from the initial installed position (tight to the left case half) toward the right case half until it sucked up against the bearing. I'm not sure how much this may have moved (didn't seem like too much at the time), but wonder (god dare I say it) if I didn't notch the clearance wide enough and the rod is smacking somewhat into those areas on the right case? Also, I used regular oem crank bearings; on the right side I heated it with a heat gun prior to putting the case half on, there was some drag from interference to the hot rods crank but not bad.

   -How much left-right clearance is supposed to exist between the crank shoulders and the sides of the bearings once assembled?
   -Is this normal for the crank to move ultimately being tight to the right bearing?
   -When installing the primary drive gear, should I have stopped shy of the torque value to prevent pulling the crank??

While I don't know this for sure (I'll know in a couple hours) I have a bad gut feeling. I feel like a total idiot!   :culpability: