New Project: YFZ/Banshee Hybrid

[jcs003]

Hey John, It looks like your Carb is way to tilted forward.....you need to get the float bowl level so the carb will work properly.....you might be either too lean or too rich with the set up you are currently running.....Maybe find an angled boot ? Did the Exciter have a straight boot ? Maybe another  Snowmobile boot  may work better ?

I considered that.  I found out why it wasn't running correctly.  in the one image, above you can see two small holes in the intake.  I forgot to plug them.  once I plugged them it idled ok.

with that said, i would like to find a different boot as to make the connection to the airbox boot easier.  a custom 3D printed piece might be my only option.

[jcs003]

When I had my banshee one side would be leaner or one side would richer with a two into one, and there's guys that have burned down the motors with the singles.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G890A using Tapatalk

I agree, this can happen.  I know a big issue is those who were using the trinity piece which is junk.  people would also have their engine fail due to using a single carb with a dual exhaust.

the exciter 2 into 1 with a 2 into 1 exhaust has been a proven trail set-up; kim kuhnle ran this set-up for years.  it might take some work to dial it in but thats parts of doing something custom.

[jcs003]

Here is the bike idling:

[video]https://youtu.be/gnoWOndAOLg[/video]

let me know what you think.

john

[jcs003]

custom chain slider (prototype):

[jcs003]

looks like a backfire caused this damage:



I believe this was caused from the use of a cheap $13 coil to troubleshoot wiring.  any other thoughts?

John

[Skeans1]

[MENTION=77]jcs003[/MENTION] any luck on this?

[jcs003]

I made progress.  I think the smart carb is the problem.  I tried 5 different metering rods and got no real improvement.  I tried my 38 a/s off the 250r and it ran better despite the carb set up for a a bigger cylinder.  I got a 35 a/s on the way.

[Skeans1]

I made progress.  I think the smart carb is the problem.  I tried 5 different metering rods and got no real improvement.  I tried my 38 a/s off the 250r and it ran better despite the carb set up for a a bigger cylinder.  I got a 35 a/s on the way.

I'll bet money the Smart Carb was your back fire reed killer John, only way they may work is with two one to each cylinder. If you're running a 2 into 1 how is it a smaller cylinder set up then your R?

[jcs003]

Skeans, it is 2, 175cc cylinders so the carb feeding 250r is jetted fat for the 175.  I could be wrong in my logic.

[Skeans1]

Skeans, it is 2, 175cc cylinders so the carb feeding 250r is jetted fat for the 175.  I could be wrong in my logic.

Each cylinder is 175 but you're feeding two cylinders with one intake so you're feeding 350cc of displacement.

[jcs003]

Well smart carb is sending new metering rods and with the 35 a/s I should be able to work it all out.

[Skeans1]

Well smart carb is sending new metering rods and with the 35 a/s I should be able to work it all out.

I finally gave up on mine couldn't keep it in adjustment with the elevation changes between my place and the coast then throw humidity into the your were sol. On the puma they claimed it was the vibrations from the motor that was causing the issues if a carb is so tight on tolerance that light vibrations mess it up why is it in motorsports? Hope it all works out for you John but if it was me I'd ask for a refund and get out and play.

[jcs003]

Skeans that will be my move if the smart carb doesnt workout with the new rods.  Corey brought up the tight tolerance thing to me too.  Apparently it is a very sensitive carb.  I am just tired of fooling with it.

[JohnTabata1]

Banshee mtrs work best one carb per piston

[broken1]

You should of ordered 2 35A/S carbs. I got a 39pwk feeding my 67mm oem cylinder & your wanting to feed a modified 350 twin with just 35mm?