Author Topic: TRX 250R from overseas (Read 17395 times)

Pontas · « **Reply #15 on:** April 01, 2016, 05:00:18 PM »

Thanks for the input.
In fact, the oils that we have today are quite better than the ones from the 80's. It's not the first time I read 32:1. Why that number? Why not 30:1 or 35:1, but specifically 32:1? Just curiosity...

meathead · « **Reply #16 on:** April 01, 2016, 10:00:36 PM »

My guess would be the easy math. At 32:1 fuel /oil ratio that's 4 ounces to 1 gallon of gas. So 4 gallons / pint of 2 stroke oil. Like 20:1 that's 1 quart 2 stroke oil to 5 gallons of fuel. What you really want to avoid is detonation. So make sure you use a proper octane rated fuel and be mindful of your compression ratio

meathead · « **Reply #17 on:** April 01, 2016, 10:24:04 PM »

What units of measurement do you use. they will probably change when we totally convert to the metric system. So if you use the metric system on your gas pump. I would figure out a good mix easy to remember it doesn't have to be exact the volume of oil is really not very specific.

Pontas · « **Reply #18 on:** April 04, 2016, 06:47:35 PM »

We use the metric system, so it works a little different. But I got the 32:1 part, it's because of the unit system.

meathead · « **Reply #19 on:** April 04, 2016, 08:36:29 PM »

Never heard it called the unit system. I guess that's as good as anything. My wheeler is sitting to damn cold to ride. Warmest winter on record possibly the longest as well. At least it will start right up now.

meathead · « **Reply #20 on:** April 04, 2016, 08:46:39 PM »

I'm quite familiar with two strokes So anything you need to know just ask and I will try to help you.

2ndmoto · « **Reply #21 on:** April 05, 2016, 01:08:48 AM »

Lots of knowledge on this site. If you have questions, feel free to ask. I typically run my bikes at 50:1

Pontas · « **Reply #22 on:** April 05, 2016, 06:48:38 AM »

Quote from: meathead;66328

Never heard it called the unit system. I guess that's as good as anything. My wheeler is sitting to damn cold to ride. Warmest winter on record possibly the longest as well. At least it will start right up now.

When I said unit system I meant that you use the US units and we use the metric system. I wasn't calling it the unit system. :congratulatory:
Thanks again for the help.

Pontas · « **Reply #23 on:** May 11, 2016, 12:23:29 PM »

A little update from my TRX. It's almost all teared apart.

Some of you might notice that there's a part of the subframe missing. Unfortunatelly, when I took off the rear fenders, I came up with that... Now, I'm thinking of what to do... Probably I'll go for an aftermarket frame. Let's see how it turns out.

2ndmoto · « **Reply #24 on:** May 11, 2016, 11:14:04 PM »

Making a removable sub frame has been done numerous times on oem frames. Glad to see you are making headway

Pontas · « **Reply #25 on:** May 12, 2016, 06:46:50 AM »

Hmmm... That's interesting. In fact, I already thought on completing the subframe, because it's missing that last part where the rear grab bar is and where the seat and rear fender bolt. The problem is I don't know measures, how it is for sure, only by seeing photos of frames on the internet... That's why I thought on buying an aftermarket frame... Oh, and there's the footpegs question, but that one I could manage. But the missing part of the subframe? I don't know... :apologetic:

JesseA420 · « **Reply #26 on:** May 12, 2016, 08:51:41 AM »

if you zoom in on the footpeg/swingarm pivot bolt area, it looks like its been broken and rewelded multiple times, including the top rear motor mount area also. may be best to start out with a fresh gusseted oem frame at least.

Pontas · « **Reply #27 on:** May 12, 2016, 10:40:24 AM »

Yep, the footpegs have been welded before to the frame. The motor mount I'm not sure, but maybe/probably... I've seen an 89 frame on ebay for sale, but I keep telling to myself: if it is all screwed up like this one, I end up with a screwed up frame and less 600$, or so, in my pocket...

JesseA420 · « **Reply #28 on:** May 12, 2016, 11:39:26 AM »

just do your own due diligence, have them send u close up pics of the problem areas to check out. communication is key when buying this 30 yr old stuff used over the internet.

welcome btw

Pontas · « **Reply #29 on:** May 12, 2016, 11:55:03 AM »

Thanks for the help and the welcome.

Here is my main question: so, unfortunately I have to spend money on a frame. Is it better to buy an OEM one or an aftermarket? I know that stock frames are not that tough, so I thought: well, if I'm spending money, probably is better to spend money on a good aftermarket one... I don't know if I'm thinking it the right way, but it's what keeping up coming to my mind...