Author Topic: New Crank and Bearings? (Read 3160 times)

Bharris · « **on:** July 25, 2016, 04:46:36 PM »

Hello everyone!

I have my engine torn down in an attempt to determine a transmission issue (another tread).

While I have the engine apart, is it normal to not change the crank and bearings? I realize that it would normally be recommended, but in my case, everything is fresh and looks/performs like new.

Is there a surefire way to check my crank to see if it needs replaced (hot rods long rod)? There is the slighted bit of left/right motion where the rod meets the crank, but very little at all - almost unnoticeable. There is no up/down motion.

Just wondering.

Thank you!

jto1 · « **Reply #1 on:** July 25, 2016, 07:43:55 PM »

Personally, you're in there, I'd replace it all while the cases are split, and then you know that you're working with a fresh bottom end. Questions I'd ask my self when were the cases split, and bottom rebuilt? Obviously it was done id it has a hot rods crank, but how long ago? If you piece out bearings, and pull the bearing numbers you can buy all new nachi, toyo, and koyo bearings, which are all what are all the original equipment bearings honda uses for under $100. I think replacing everything, seals, bearings, and gaskets, and water pump seal, I was right around $200. I would, just because I know its all new, and a completely rebuilt bottom end while cases are open, and probably wouldn't need it again in the time I owned it. But then again, I know stock bottom ends that are untouched, that "run fine". But doesn't necessarily mean no bearings are wore. Just my .02$

Bharris · « **Reply #2 on:** July 25, 2016, 07:57:53 PM »

Thanks for your input jto1. A new crank is $300 though - phew! Would it be better to send my crank out to be rebuilt? The budget for rebuilding this bottom end is becoming sky high.

Skeans1 · « **Reply #3 on:** July 25, 2016, 08:12:23 PM »

Quote from: Bharris;68973

Thanks for your input jto1. A new crank is $300 though - phew! Would it be better to send my crank out to be rebuilt? The budget for rebuilding this bottom end is becoming sky high.

They can be had cheaper then that, my last stroker was a bit above 200 take the part number and throw it in Google you'll be amazed on what you can find.

jto1 · « **Reply #4 on:** July 25, 2016, 09:32:11 PM »

Quote from: Bharris;68973

Thanks for your input jto1. A new crank is $300 though - phew! Would it be better to send my crank out to be rebuilt? The budget for rebuilding this bottom end is becoming sky high.

They are cheap to rebuild, ct racing charges 55$ for labor plus the parts.

Skeans1 · « **Reply #5 on:** July 25, 2016, 10:40:07 PM »

Quote from: jto1;68976

They are cheap to rebuild, ct racing charges 55$ for labor plus the parts.

By the time you have a crank rebuilt and a rod kit you can almost buy a new crank.

jto1 · « **Reply #6 on:** July 26, 2016, 12:15:32 AM »

Quote from: Skeans1;68978

By the time you have a crank rebuilt and a rod kit you can almost buy a new crank.

On a budget every $50 spent counts, $55 for labor, connecting rod can be had for $60 for a pro x with new bearing and pin, $115 rebuilt vs $250 new, on a budget makes a huge difference.

broken1 · « **Reply #7 on:** July 26, 2016, 01:03:43 AM »

Quote from: jto1;68979

On a budget every $50 spent counts, $55 for labor, connecting rod can be had for $60 for a pro x with new bearing and pin, $115 rebuilt vs $250 new, on a budget makes a huge difference.

I couldn't agree with this more but a new hotrods crank can be purchased off ebay for 200 from a few different vendors:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Hot-Rods-Crank-Crankshaft-Honda-TRX-250R-87-89-4007-/401077973614?hash=item5d621c326e:m:mMDWVMyllSOm-6_buISFwSg&vxp=mtr

Skeans1 · « **Reply #8 on:** July 26, 2016, 08:40:34 AM »

Quote from: broken1;68980

I couldn't agree with this more but a new hotrods crank can be purchased off ebay for 200 from a few different vendors:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Hot-Rods-Crank-Crankshaft-Honda-TRX-250R-87-89-4007-/401077973614?hash=item5d621c326e:m:mMDWVMyllSOm-6_buISFwSg&vxp=mtr

Plus by the time you add in shipping both way say 40 for both rides you're with in 50 dollars.

Tbone07 · « **Reply #9 on:** July 26, 2016, 09:53:00 AM »

How did you go about disassembling the bottom-end? If you used a combination of rubber mallets, wedges, and screwdrivers then there's an increased chance you could have damaged or tweaked something upon disassembly. That might determine whether or not you want to replace parts. I always try to use a crank puller and case separator

Bharris · « **Reply #10 on:** July 26, 2016, 11:08:57 AM »

I have all of the correct tools - crank puller/case separator, etc.

I also need to get top, case saver mounting hole repaired - it still works because there are enough threads deeper into the hole. I would rather get this fixed. I have heard that some of the guys out west can fix this - is this something that perhaps a local machine/weld shop could do? While we're on the subject, should I paid or powdercoat the case?

Thanks everyone - this has been a huge help. Now I will create another post regarding what I can expect when I dig into the gears, forks, etc.