Rebuilt in Hawaii (2012)

[Hawaiiysr]

I rebuilt this R in 2012 or so. Just moving this over here for others to read. ill add in the pictures as time permits.

Aloha! here goes my rebuild. i know we are all picture whores so i took a lot of them. not quite pau yet but enjoy
the original builder of this 250R was dirtycj5. he is also a member here but lives on a different island then I (Big Island) it was posted on CL for some time.
 
it was sold to some guy locally on the Big Island. it was then posted FS on CL again by the new owner whom i purchased it from. i had it shipped over from the Big Island to Oahu. it was a bit beat up. Neglected to say the least and definitely not as clean and pretty as the above picture. i took care of what needed attention and took her for a few rides before she needed major help.
  
after a few MX events my frame was toast and a BIG band aid would not fix anything. at least i got to dust a few 450's first
Before the tear down:
 

[Hawaiiysr]

Subframe cracked in 2 different places, swing arm, foot peg area (both sides), lower motor mounts, all broken. front motor mounts were incorrect to begin with so that will need correction also. Carnage is here...

[Hawaiiysr]

CT pipe mount was already broken when i bought the quad. motor still looks good and ran like a champ. drain plug is starting to strip though. timesert will fix it up. will do a top end job in the future.

[Hawaiiysr]

i picked up the tank cover on ebay. not sure of the brand. Feather carbon i think. i had it re-cleared and the painter screwed it up. i'll post a pic later. it needs alot of wet sanding to be salvaged. then re-cleared. you want something done right, do it yourself. with that said, on with the build!

seeing that my sub frame was cracked in multiple places i figured why not just hack it all off and build a removable height adjustable sub frame. i got the idea from ATV Riders Forum to build myself a new subframe.
while i was still brain storming redred55 posted a Laeger flip top for sale. i decided to buy it and make it work.
and since i needed completely new front motor mounts i contacted Pumashine to see if he could help. 86 frame mounts are molded pieces and 87-89 frame mounts are stamped. both very hard to duplicate. long story short, he had a frame to scrap and the section i needed was still good. DingDong mail man, parts are here.
   
Flip top from redred55. gusset kit, CR250 coil mount, engine stand, frame section, stainless front engine mounts, and, broken cases to use for mock up. THANKS Pumashine!
 

[Hawaiiysr]

i started work on my screwed 87 frame and realized, THIS SUCKS! i lost major motivation. i would love to call Walsh, LS, or, Laeger and say hay send me a frame. not an option. this is only the 2nd 250R i have ever seen in my life. where am i going to find a frame? i know where, CL! i'm a lucky SOB. a complete 86 poped up FS on CL. again from the Big Island. my wheels were turning again. i bought it
 

pretty much untouched. stock engine. carbon reeds, wheels, ESR TRX5 pipe, FMF silencer. spin around the block and i took it apart. i hate yellow:P

[Hawaiiysr]

no pictures of the yellow R break down. my plan is to build off the yellow R and put all the goodie parts from the red R on. so transformers action. the yellow will transform into the new Red R. Pumashine gusset kit time. these pics are just to show the quality of these kits. the new metal is so much thicker then the OEM metal.

[Hawaiiysr]

after all the welding was done i went over some areas with a green sanding pad to smooth out the welds. then i used this gel stripper from the hardware store. i cant recall the name right now but the stuff works great! brush it on and watch your old powder coat or paint peel away. after i let the nasty stuff sit i pressure wash it all off to reveal bare metal.


welcome to Hawaii flash rust. did a good coat of etching primer before paint.

[Hawaiiysr]

drum roll please...............................

     
TA DA! no more yellow. Ti Aarm bolts from Jay @ Four Werx, S/S motor mounts from Pumashine, and brand new OEM motor mount bolts. ok i'm going to sleep. more later. hope you all enjoy. moemoe time for me!

[Hawaiiysr]

before i broke my quad down i was having a problem with my rear end. figured i would share my issue.
my rear end had major left to right play. figured it was my lock nut. tightened it and still the same issue. replaced the lock nut because i thought it was too worn and could not get tight enough. i replaced it with a Jensen/Outlaw type lock nut. it tightened things up but now the rear end was binding. so i took it all apart to find this:
 
the sprocket hub looks like it was missing a pressed on zink spacer. the spacer should ride on the race of the carrier bearing. check out the difference of the old and new sprocket hubs. both sprocket hubs are LoneStar parts. what happen to the old part? i have no idea.

because of the missing spacer the hub and the carrier was binding. the wear is shown here:

while i was back there i figured i would change out the old LoneStar carrier. Burgard had carriers on sale for $99 shipped so i jumped on it. took a month to get to me. i consider myself lucky. Burgard has the WORST customer service. be warned. ive heard stories of people not even receiving parts after payment. i like this carrier because of the chain adjustment. all you need is a 3/8 extention. also the grease nipple is on the outside. not on the inside like most carries. installed:

another part i installed was a LoneStar 450R sprocket guard. its S/S so it will take a beating. i ride 98% MX so a skid plate is not needed. i feel better with something back there. picked this part up along with the wave rotor from Troybuilt. THANKS BRADDA! also new pads so its all fresh in the rear. if you in the market for a sprocket guard, 250R, 400EX, 450R, and 300EX all have the same sprocket bolt pattern.

looks cool but i am kind of sketchy of how close the chain rides to the guard. i heard of chains getting de-railed on dual sprocket guards so one side may be the hot set up. still it rides so close. i may space the guard over "just in case" anyone shead some light on this topic? maybe i'll call LS or GT Thunder and for clearance specs.

thats all for now kids. looks good to me. hope you think so too.
 
Shaka BRADDA!

[Hawaiiysr]

more parts for the build
S/S Roll pegs with kick ups thanks Croat1! Herrman Racing resi clamps, thanks Troybuilt! and some random polished eye candy done up by yours truely
 

[Hawaiiysr]

small update 

put some odds on too. new TAG grips  not too happy with these. you get what you pay for.
new rear MC from ECATV.  i was just going to rebuild my old one but the C-clip holding the guts in was rusted to the MC. my plunger was also all rusted. just FYI plungers are disco'd from honda. if you need a new plunger get one from a Z400. they are a direct fit and you can still use a TRX250r rebuild kit. over all i'm happy with the ECATV MC. also installed a new red S/S brake line. looks perrrdy. dont mind the blue painters tape. dont want to fuk up other parts.

its time hang my exhaust. i'm sticking with my CT mid pipe. i also have 2 different FMF's and a TRX5. the TRX5 will be going on another build.
Trevor, the guy that use to own My Business - Home use to sell exhaust manifold Orings. he had a few different ones rated for different temps. i dont recall the specs of the ones pictured here but they did work for the time that i had them installed. these will get re-used on a different build. 

Trevor also sold this booger looking thing.  this is what i am going to install on this build. since the TLR site does not sell these any more i bought what this stuff reminded me of from the first time i seen it. A tire plug! i figured why will it not work? i'll try it out and post my findings. i hate seeing leaky 2stroke exhaust. to install it, i cut it in half because the plug material is way too thick to fit in the manifold groove. shove that booger in there and install. you want a tight fit. 



how many silencers look like this?  hitting big jumps, some silencers are above the rear caliper. this is comin with CT silencers. this is what i did to fix it.
   
in the last over head picture you can see the silencer now clears the caliper. i used 1/2" spacers to move it all over.

[Hawaiiysr]

has it reall been that long since i did an update? sometimes life just gets in the way of fun.

got some stuff in. BIG box from Pumashine and a little package from Billy.
im always excited to recieve things from Pumashine. i come to really appricate metal work and his is top notch. he sent me 2 sets of his aluminum shrouds with radiator guards.   
all of that in that one box! reminded me how all the clowns come out of a little car lol! packageing was awesome as usual. also got a set of copper cylinder head washer. sorry no picture of those. they look like... um washers.
i see a problem though. not with the shrouds themself but with my frame. gotta do something about it or change something. crap>

next up is the small package. ive been waiting a long time for these. 
Stainless Steel exhaust hangers. all my stock ones are ugly and of fvkd up. people ask alot for their old used ones so i kept bugging BillyGoat till he got some in stock.
they are a little more heavy then stock, derr they are SS. come in a few different colors, and are way, way, cheaper then OEM, or used OEM.
the difference:
here's a link:Stainless steel exhaust hangers. $55 shipped.
before:
after:
so pretty no more rust and dried rotten rubber. Thanks Billy!

[Hawaiiysr]

ok going to try and wrap this build tread up tonite. i'll post a video at the end.

as for the shiming the sprocket guard, this is what i did:
 
got some washers to space it over. i measured all the washers so the spacing would all be even. 3 washers came out to 4.6mm. looks good to me.

i cut off all the extra mounts and tabs on this frame. that includes the coolant bottle mounts and line tabs. so i installed a Walsh style coolant bottle on my right side radiator shroud. measure, drill, get the correct spacers, and, new 1/4" id line. Pau.
 

i hated dealing with clutch cables, EZ pull levers, and adjusting every ride. ATVGalaxy on ebay had StreamLine Hydro clutch for sale awhile back. i couldnt pass it up. i thought i was going to have a harder time installing this part but it was a breeze. instructions call for 2 people. i got two hands. good enough.
 
i ran my wires and my hydo clutch line to the front of the engine. looks abit cleaner to me this way.

i like being able to remove parts fast. i'm sure you guys will like this. these are quick disconnect fuel line couplers. push the silver tab and BAM! the line is off. i install 2. one for the primary fuel line and one for the reserve line. one i installed male to female and the other female to male. this is so when both lines are disconnected you do not cross the lines.
 
i'm a hardware store junkie. and a Pumashine product junkie too. his gusset kit includes a cylinder that goes around the swing arm bolt. the ID of the cylinder is 1 1/4" so i found these hole plugs that fit perfectly!
 
and more with the quick stuff. Dzus fasterns. 1/4 turn and front plastics are off! i welded the Dzus tab to the mounting bracket.
 

[Hawaiiysr]

shake down run went well. Jetting was pretty dam good. lost a few bolts. few parts failed no big deal, all was expected. got a few hours of riding in. hooked up with a couple friends. over all good day. i'm happy with my rebuild

[Hawaiiysr]

besides losing some bolts, my spark plug cap is no good. it kept coming off. i zip tied it to my coolant hose. fixed for the day. my Hydro clutch starting slipping. then it would grab again. looks like i need to bleed it again. main thing it does not leek. i have some odd coolant leak going on. its so little and my hoses are tight. bes i be glad its not gushing. and last my rear exhaust mount rubber separated from its housing. all small change in the big picture.