Bearing removal

[Banshee330]

Been searching schematics for an extra thrust washer, found a thread with this part number 90608-072-000. Doesn’t seem to work. Anybody know of another part number for the extra washer?

[4WHLr]

Thats the right  number for the pressure plate thrust washer. 1 is what is in there stock.
This was a long time ago, but Tony = Pumashine here was going to cut some these washers at various thicknesses to dial in the free play a little tighter. 
That clutch arm should rotate pretty smoothly. Maybe the bearings got seated a little too firmly?

[Banshee330]

I hope I didn’t seat them to much, my son took a video of the bottom bearing because I can’t see it in the hole. It looked good to me. No rolled over edge and I could see every roller in between the cage. I very well could have brinelled  the bearing during installation. I made these tools to press the bearings against the tight ring in the fit, which is the outter race. I used a rubber mallet and froze the needle bearings. I wish I had some small v blocks and a dial indicator to check the clutch arm run out. I think it is bent but I can’t see it with the naked eye. I found a washer on at a eBay store along with a new clutch arm. So I am gonna have to wait a little longer to finish this motor. When you actuate the clutch arm I wasn’t getting any pressure plate movement, it seems when I polish the clutch arm more it’s only sticking in the position that it is meant to be in. Every where else it moves freely.

[Banshee330]

Steve, does your clutch bushing look like this?

yes mine looks like this for sure.

[4WHLr]

Those are some really nice installation tools you made there. That should have kept them from deforming pretty well.
If its not too late I have a few of those washers nip for just in case here, and could throw one in the mail for you for free if you still need one.

[Banshee330]

That would be cool! I got a washer coming. It said same washer that is sold in the clutch lifter kit. I think it’s made by BDT. I didn’t opt for the extended clutch arm I didn’t want to have to do any modifications to the cylinder. I just hope I bought the right one. If you could spare one I would surely take it, if I don’t use it I will send it back. If you need to borrow these bearing installation tools I could send them to you! Thanks

[4WHLr]

That would be no problem, it should get there with just a stamp. I have three spares so no trouble at all.
I thought I bought a set of the assorted washers from Tony years ago, but I can’t find them.
I appreciate the tool rental also, lol.
I’ll send it off tomorrow

[Banshee330]

Well guys I got the motor together, hope I did it right. On to the next step. Gonna replace that intake boot, rubber has got dry rotted.

[2ndmoto]

Nice. Looks like you did a great job on your first R motor

[4WHLr]

Awesome !!!  Thats the perfect time to do a pressure check for peace of mind, and avoiding trouble and headaches after its installed.

Just in case you're not familiar with that you can go to the Duncan racing website and go to the tech center, then technical documents,
two stroke, then two stroke pressure test.  ( wish I had a direct link for you)

[Banshee330]

Hey guys! Does this rubber ring go half way up this strainer? Like where the old one is?

[croat1]

Pic:

[Banshee330]

Awesome, thanks

[Banshee330]

Hi guys! Any recommendations on buying a new cdi or this other little box, all the wires seem very brittle. Quad didn’t have a front light. So I was thinking of getting a race harness wire kit to simply the wiring process, and a new ignition coil, any recommendations on this kinda stuff would be helpful. My son checked the stator and said it ohm’ed out ok.

[croat1]

Oem CDI’s are discontinued.  New old stock pop up from time to time but you’ll be looking at around $400 for one.  A set up from HPI, Motor City Spark or Zeeltronic is an option.  Now as far as wiring harnesses contact All250R:

https://www.forums.trx250r.org/index.php/topic,8732.msg78550.html#msg78550

Joe