Author Topic: Will full synthetic oils mix well at 32:1 or 20:1? (Read 11284 times)

supernutt · « **on:** March 08, 2014, 08:10:38 PM »

Been running amsoil dominator at 40:1 for a little bit. After reading some of the posts about oil I want to mix it at least 32:1 or maybe even 24:1 on the dunes. Just wondering if I can do that with a synthetic oil like dominator or if I have to switch to a conventional oil? Cant run castor oil due to the cold temps here. I do most of my riding in the cold. Would be going in my 310 and my 330 on race fuel.

udontknowme · « **Reply #1 on:** March 08, 2014, 10:54:36 PM »

if castor is out of the question then me personally would be using klotz r50. 20:1-24:1 would be fine

supernutt · « **Reply #2 on:** March 09, 2014, 08:27:51 AM »

I used to use R50 in a banshee I had. It worked fine on the sand dunes but when I would trail ride it would build up so much carbon on the spark plug it would foul out 1 or 2 a day. Since I mostly trail ride I don't think R50 would work out so well.....Kind of leaning towards Maxima Super M or maybe the honda synthetic premix oil..

Bigred · « **Reply #3 on:** March 09, 2014, 10:39:16 AM »

I use the stuff from the gas station lol never had a problem.its dose stink like hell tho

rk88r · « **Reply #4 on:** March 09, 2014, 11:31:24 AM »

I run dominator at 40-1 for trail riding. When I go to the dunes (Idaho 5000' elev.) I mix it at 32-1. I rejet for Idaho anyway. The extra oil makes me feel better for the long pulls up choke cherry.

supernutt · « **Reply #5 on:** March 09, 2014, 11:53:14 AM »

Thats kind of where I am at too. But my trails are usually fast forest roads so 5th gear wide open a lot. Thinking I might even run more than 32:1 just to be safe. But just a little concerned about a oil that is recommended at 50:1 ratio being run at double the recommended amount. Long term effects and such. I have heard that the additives pose a problem at the heavier mix ratios.

rk88r · « **Reply #6 on:** March 09, 2014, 12:04:28 PM »

I doubt to much oil will be a prob.

supernutt · « **Reply #7 on:** March 09, 2014, 12:12:34 PM »

Friend has a snowmobile that just took out the rod bearings. Seemed to be injecting about 50:1 ratio. Doesn't look pretty as they seemed to be too hot. Another reason why I want more oil.

udontknowme · « **Reply #8 on:** March 09, 2014, 03:11:16 PM »

you seem determined to stay with amsoil so call em and ask if mixing it heavier will cause a problem. superM i wouldnt touch with a 10foot pole. its petroleum based. not sure why you had a problem with r50. either your carb was way off or you ride 2mph.

Burns363R · « **Reply #9 on:** March 09, 2014, 03:28:11 PM »

Not sure i get the castor oil and the cold commetns. I shake my can always before i pour... And i run castor oil without much fear. When your riding the tank shakes enough to keep everything in suspension.

Maybe im wrong, but i havent ever heard of not being able to run castor at extreme cold temps.

supernutt · « **Reply #10 on:** March 09, 2014, 04:08:26 PM »

We had a problem with our stock compression banshees fouling spark plugs when trail riding where we could not keep them wide open all day. It worked just fine on my high compression banshee but I only ran that on the sand dunes. I believe it says right on Maximas website that you should not use the castor oil in temperatures below 40° Due to it separating. Maybe I will buy a bottle of R50 and try it on these high compression Hondas and see what happens

udontknowme · « **Reply #11 on:** March 09, 2014, 05:06:27 PM »

there is a real possibility of castor causing problems in cold temps, the exact temp may vary depending what brand castor and fuel type. 927 is only partial castor, probly around 25% so it may do better in the cold than benol.

i have done my own experiments with benol by setting some mixture outside at night and do***enting the temp when it starts to change visually. of course i have no way to test if its lubricating properties are still intact or not at this point but with the visual changes we can assume its probly not a good idea to use it in the engine. few weeks ago i mentioned having my inline filter clogged up from what appeared to be sepeartion. even with new filter it was partially clogged soon again. generally i dont get my bikes out until above 60f and ive never encountered any problem with castor. this year i got em out earlier than normal so i could have em tuned for easter at the dunes but the cold is causing problems for me.

supernutt · « **Reply #12 on:** March 09, 2014, 05:14:17 PM »

If it wouldn't be for the cold separation I would be running 927 or benol

Jerry Hall · « **Reply #13 on:** March 09, 2014, 05:57:57 PM »

Quote from: udontknowme;28351

.......................there is a real possibility of castor causing problems in cold temps, the exact temp may vary depending what brand castor and fuel type. 927 is only partial castor, probly around 25% so it may do better in the cold than benol. ..................

Maxima Super m is about 20% castor and the remainder is petroleum and a splash of synthetic.

Maxima 927 is over 90% castor oil.

Jerry Hall · « **Reply #14 on:** March 09, 2014, 06:14:31 PM »

Quote from: Burns363R;28337

Not sure i get the castor oil and the cold commetns. I shake my can always before i pour... And i run castor oil without much fear. When your riding the tank shakes enough to keep everything in suspension.

Maybe im wrong, but i havent ever heard of not being able to run castor at extreme cold temps.

If the fuel and oil chemistry is right, shaking the can is not necessary. If the chemistry is right the fuel will be crystal clear. If the fuel is cloudy the oil has already separated from the fuel and will make jetting impossible.

Cloudy fuel will cause the combustion chamber to get a different amount of fuel and oil each engine revolution. Some engine revolutions will get get almost pure oil while other engine revolutions will get almost 100 % fuel without oil. Lubrication is not usually affected very much with cloudy or fuel that has separated, but the air/fuel ratio will vary dramatically from one engine revolution to the next causing the engine to run like the jetting is way off or it has an electrical problem.