Author Topic: Thoughts and or where to buy ceramic bearings (Read 6718 times)

JohnTabata1 · « **Reply #15 on:** March 31, 2016, 06:32:49 PM »

I also use all titanium and aluminum hardware on my drag bikes. I don't leave anything on the table when it comes to racing

Jerry Hall · « **Reply #16 on:** March 31, 2016, 07:14:33 PM »

Going from all steel bolts to all titanium bolts and screws on one of the old Kawasaki Works Motocross bikes saved us less than 1.5 pounds at a cost of around $2000.00

Rupp250 · « **Reply #17 on:** March 31, 2016, 10:05:03 PM »

Jerry, have you kept up with the current drag bikes? People have showed up with no brakes.

Tabata can machine that carrier for ya.

John I was thinking about where there is more weight to loose, do you know of anyone opening up the inner diameter on the axles.

JohnTabata1 · « **Reply #18 on:** March 31, 2016, 10:16:26 PM »

Here is some ATV race components I have machined https://www.instagram.com/jtmachining/

Rupp I don't recommend machining the axle ID more than 19mm. I'm sure if I went over your set up I could find areas to drop lbs. For example, I typically can machine about a pound off a billet carrier

jcs003 · « **Reply #19 on:** April 01, 2016, 05:42:47 AM »

Quote from: Jerry Hall;66186

Going from all steel bolts to all titanium bolts and screws on one of the old Kawasaki Works Motocross bikes saved us less than 1.5 pounds at a cost of around $2000.00

so the total weight of the bikes bolts were approximately 2.8 lbs? titanium is about 40% lighter so i find it very hard to believe that statement is true. care to elaborate?

JohnTabata1 · « **Reply #20 on:** April 01, 2016, 07:30:39 AM »

I know I save more than 3lbs using all titanium and aluminum hardware. This doesn't even include the machined lighter components and titanium tube/plate components

Jerry Hall · « **Reply #21 on:** April 01, 2016, 10:17:19 AM »

I do not remember the total weight of all of the screws, bolts, axles, suspension pivots etc around 1980. I just remember we were disappointed at the cost and the 1.5lbs of weight saved.

What is the weight of all of the steel bolts and screws on a modern two-stroke mx bike?

JesseA420 · « **Reply #22 on:** April 01, 2016, 01:01:23 PM »

i have a full bike stainless bolt kit still in the bag in my garage for a tri-z i am doing a ground up on for a guy, weighs pry 10lbs at least? maybe a bit more.

Jerry Hall · « **Reply #23 on:** April 01, 2016, 07:37:12 PM »

Steel bolts and suspension pivot pins were used in areas requiring high strength. The majority of the 6mm screws on the chassis (side panel screws seat bolts, fender bolts.) were aluminum. Aluminum 6mm screws were used on the engine for clutch cover and ignition cover bolts

jcs003 · « **Reply #24 on:** April 01, 2016, 07:46:42 PM »

saving mass (or changing its location) is easier than trying to reduce internal engine friction.

Skeans1 · « **Reply #25 on:** April 01, 2016, 09:26:56 PM »

Quote from: jcs003;66215

saving mass (or changing its location) is easier than trying to reduce internal engine friction.

Cheaper is a diet

jadleybray · « **Reply #26 on:** April 02, 2016, 02:40:12 AM »

Ceramic isn't for the masses, nor is ti. But to those that already have those things, it most certainly is worth it. When you drop 10g on a ti chassis, you sure af don't put steel bolts in it.

F-Red · « **Reply #27 on:** April 02, 2016, 09:22:36 AM »

Quote from: jadleybray;66229

Ceramic isn't for the masses, nor is ti. But to those that already have those things, it most certainly is worth it. When you drop 10g on a ti chassis, you sure af don't put steel bolts in it.

^ Nice rail. :onthego: This ends the debate. As Jerry said, once you perfect all components, then you will see the benefits. :victorious: