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Author Topic: Got the new motor in  (Read 6279 times)

Offline Mickkey82984

Got the new motor in
« on: August 16, 2014, 09:12:18 PM »
I finally got enough energy to install my new motor. I got to modify my pipe mount, this saber scp pipe mounts in a different spot then my prox scp pipe did and still got to figure out where to mount the fuel pump.





Offline Hawaiiysr

Got the new motor in
« Reply #1 on: August 16, 2014, 11:49:19 PM »
Das a BIG cylinder

Offline Mickkey82984

Got the new motor in
« Reply #2 on: August 17, 2014, 12:20:33 PM »
Quote from: Hawaiiysr;41063
Das a BIG cylinder

97mm, traxman said it one of the biggest sabers Pete ever built. I just hope this cinder beater frame can handle the hybrid power.

Offline udontknowme

Got the new motor in
« Reply #3 on: August 17, 2014, 01:08:45 PM »
not sure it matters much where the pump is located. i had concearns it needed to be below the fuel level but turns out that isnt true. had mine above fuel level and worked great. had the black mikuni. never tried any of the other ones
to much power is almost enough

Offline Mickkey82984

Got the new motor in
« Reply #4 on: August 17, 2014, 01:21:26 PM »
Quote from: udontknowme;41080
not sure it matters much where the pump is located. i had concearns it needed to be below the fuel level but turns out that isnt true. had mine above fuel level and worked great. had the black mikuni. never tried any of the other ones

Thanks for the help. I think that's the pump Im going to run as well, Dave posted a pic of it on your alky tread a while back so that's the one I ordered. Can you post some pics of how u mounted yours. I'm a Rookie when it comes to big motors, fuel pumps and alky.

Offline 2ndmoto

Got the new motor in
« Reply #5 on: August 17, 2014, 07:01:22 PM »
Very nice! Thanks for sharing

Best regards
-Jason

Offline udontknowme

Got the new motor in
« Reply #6 on: August 17, 2014, 09:01:00 PM »
im sure youll have many more options for a mounting location than i did.  back wall of the airbox is what i ended up doing and really i didnt have much other choice but it worked fine so i have no complaints . black pumps you can get from packard if need be. he also has tygon hose or you can get it from mcmaster. most my hose i got from mcmaster. seems like i was using 3/8 for the tank vent and the main line going from the pingle to the pump then 5/16 or somethin like that for the 2 lines out of the pump to the carb and 1/8 for powerjet lines



top view how i routed both lines into 1 then down to the carb. alot of what i did was trial and error as im sure youll find out also. the reason i have a extra piece of hose around the main hose is because the tygon doesnt seem to have good abrasion qaulities and i was having problems with vibration making the hose rub against stuff and it was sawing through the hose so i put a small piece of hose around the main hose in a few spots to protect it. the brass splice is simply so i can disconnect the pulse line there and remove the pump without having to pull the full length of line out, i can also disconect the fuel line at the Y so the pump can be removed rather easily. most likely you wont encounter any of these obstacles however




dilled out the stock gas cap and used a brass connector from the harware store. seems like it was 3/8 pipe thread on one end and a nipple on the other

to much power is almost enough

Offline udontknowme

Got the new motor in
« Reply #7 on: August 17, 2014, 09:10:24 PM »
im sure youll have many more options for a mounting location than i did.  back wall of the airbox is what i ended up doing and really i didnt have much other choice but it worked fine so i have no complaints . black pumps you can get from packard if need be. he also has tygon hose or you can get it from mcmaster. most my hose i got from mcmaster. seems like i was using 3/8 for the tank vent and the main line going from the pingle to the pump then 5/16 or somethin like that for the 2 lines out of the pump to the carb and 1/8 for powerjet lines



top view how i routed both lines into 1 then down to the carb. alot of what i did was trial and error as im sure youll find out also. the reason i have a extra piece of hose around the main hose is because the tygon doesnt seem to have good abrasion qaulities and i was having problems with vibration making the hose rub against stuff and it was sawing through the hose so i put a small piece of hose around the main hose in a few spots to protect it. the brass splice is simply so i can disconnect the pulse line there and remove the pump without having to pull the full length of line out, i can also disconect the fuel line at the Y so the pump can be removed rather easily. most likely you wont encounter any of these obstacles however




dilled out the stock gas cap and used a brass connector from the harware store. seems like it was 3/8 pipe thread on one end and a nipple on the other

to much power is almost enough

Offline atv fan 28

Got the new motor in
« Reply #8 on: August 17, 2014, 11:13:20 PM »
I didn't mount my pump to anything.  I used fuel injection hose for the lines and they're stiff enough to hold the pump up by itself. I might have a few pics if you need any.

Offline udontknowme

Got the new motor in
« Reply #9 on: August 17, 2014, 11:52:47 PM »
ya everyone has their own way of doing it. i dont think theres really any wrong way
to much power is almost enough

Offline atv fan 28

Got the new motor in
« Reply #10 on: August 18, 2014, 12:17:22 AM »
I do remember being told to have your vaccum line pointed downward. The reason? I honestly can't remember.  But I believe Rss396 suggested I do it. Maybe he will chime in.

Offline udontknowme

Got the new motor in
« Reply #11 on: August 18, 2014, 12:36:13 AM »
im not sure but the only option i really had was to point it up. never had any trouble with it.  at first i had some concearn if the pulse line might be too long and the signal being weak but that wasnt a issue either. when you start the engine youll be able to see the fuel go through the lines and it gets to the carb instantly. thats how i knew i would be fine with the pump above the fuel and the long pulse line
to much power is almost enough

Offline rsss396

Got the new motor in
« Reply #12 on: August 18, 2014, 06:58:39 AM »
The reason you want the pulse line and pump higher along with being pointed down is so oil does not build up overtime in the pump.
My snomoquad was like this for a few seasons and by the end of the season it would have a build up of oil in it until I mounted it higher than the vacuum port and it would naturally drain itself
Anyone looking for a great builder I highly recommend the following.
For CP products dealers I would recommend:
Arlan at LED(site sponsor), Pete Schemberger at Hybrid Engineering, Mat Shearer at Shearer Custom Pipes, Dennis Packard at Packard Racing, and Nate McCoy of McCoys Peformance.

Other great builders I also would recommend: Neil Prichard, Jerry Hall, Bubba Ramsey and James Dodge.

Offline JesseA420

Got the new motor in
« Reply #13 on: August 18, 2014, 07:05:08 AM »
Quote from: Hawaiiysr;66760
Yup i sucked the head. taste like dirt.

[/FONT]

Offline rsss396

Got the new motor in
« Reply #14 on: August 18, 2014, 10:56:55 AM »
yes a gusset kit would be a great upgrade, from the few saber stock frame setups I seen they had issues breaking the lower motor mount which is commonly broken anyways even on mild motors
Anyone looking for a great builder I highly recommend the following.
For CP products dealers I would recommend:
Arlan at LED(site sponsor), Pete Schemberger at Hybrid Engineering, Mat Shearer at Shearer Custom Pipes, Dennis Packard at Packard Racing, and Nate McCoy of McCoys Peformance.

Other great builders I also would recommend: Neil Prichard, Jerry Hall, Bubba Ramsey and James Dodge.

 

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