Author Topic: Kill switch and headlight wiring mess...Need help!!! (Read 9594 times)

engineer81 · « **on:** October 01, 2014, 11:37:32 AM »

OK. So while I'm waiting for some parts to arrive I decided to remove the broken stock headlight on/off switch. The lights are gone and the previous owner installed a tether kill switch. So I removed the gas tank and found a ball of wires, tape, and connectors going everywhere. Does anyone have a simple wiring diagram or explanation of how I can clean up this mess? All I need is the tether, I don't plan on ever putting lights back on this machine.

Brad

DnB_Racing · « **Reply #1 on:** October 01, 2014, 06:54:51 PM »

if you need any more let me know

DnB_Racing · « **Reply #2 on:** October 01, 2014, 06:59:32 PM »

if you need any more let me know

engineer81 · « **Reply #3 on:** October 01, 2014, 07:48:18 PM »

Do you have a simpler diagram say for a race setup w/o lights. All I want is a kill switch and eliminate all the excess wiring. Just curious. Thanks

Brad

DnB_Racing · « **Reply #4 on:** October 01, 2014, 08:15:38 PM »

Quote from: engineer81;43678

Do you have a simpler diagram say for a race setup w/o lights. All I want is a kill switch and eliminate all the excess wiring. Just curious. Thanks

Brad

ya but I don't have it saved on my hard drive...its on a couple of the other site 250r sites in the sticky on atv riders and on net, under my name just google 250r schematics in color and it should come up

Bio86 · « **Reply #5 on:** October 02, 2014, 08:45:36 AM »

Just lay that diagram DnB posted out and start eliminating the things you don't want to the nearest splice. Can hook it up and test it after each removal just to make sure something goofy doesn't happen along the way. When I switched to DC I did the ignition completely separate with a momentary push button to kill the motor and it worked out fine.

08IRS · « **Reply #6 on:** October 02, 2014, 09:08:04 AM »

There is a guy on the Facebook page who makes race cut harnesses if you are interested. I picked one up from him and it looks good.

I also have a mess of wires on mine so I know what you are dealing with.

engineer81 · « **Reply #7 on:** October 02, 2014, 10:38:36 AM »

Ricky Stator was the race harness for about $70. Is the guy on Facebook cheaper?

08IRS · « **Reply #8 on:** October 02, 2014, 12:37:33 PM »

60.00 shipped if I remember correctly.

engineer81 · « **Reply #9 on:** October 02, 2014, 05:29:11 PM »

Thanks for the info.

Brad

Langbolt · « **Reply #10 on:** October 02, 2014, 09:33:04 PM »

Does this help ?

Langbolt · « **Reply #11 on:** October 02, 2014, 09:47:21 PM »

Or this.....

DnB_Racing · « **Reply #12 on:** October 03, 2014, 10:27:49 AM »

Quote from: Langbolt;43765

Or this.....

this one still has the regulator...in case at some time you want to run lights....but for full race you don't need the yellow wire or the reulator

engineer81 · « **Reply #13 on:** October 03, 2014, 10:34:40 AM »

Just what I was looking for. Thanks y'all

Langbolt · « **Reply #14 on:** October 03, 2014, 12:57:49 PM »

Quote from: DnB_Racing;43788

this one still has the regulator...in case at some time you want to run lights....but for full race you don't need the yellow wire or the reulator

I'm not an electrical wizard by any means....so if there are any here, please comment.....But I thought if you have a power wire that is live....it needs to go to a source be it a LIGHT or a REGULATOR.....or you'll strain the coil.

I guess if you're never going to run lights....this would be ok....but could it cause a spark if not sealed off correctly ?

That would be very bad.